Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category


Sitting at a desk in Adelaide, a world bike journey may seem like a world away. Stress, deadlines and meetings make days blur into years. Want to make a change and step off the merry-go-round for a while? Well, this is for you. Some tips for cycling around the world.

Approaching the pass

A quiet road in the back blocks in Uzbekistan

  1. How to I actually DO it? Tell people about it!

You’ve heard stories of people making life decisions with mates at the pub after a few too many? You say what’s on your mind, and what you want to (and are going to) do. Then your mates keep you to your word. The cat is out, and now they’re watching you now follow through. No more letting time pass with inaction.

I decided that my bike trip was not just a dream when I told a friend, and excitedly she said she would come along too. At that moment I realised it was not crazy, and I could totally do it. My mind switched from it being one of those things you just dream about, to something that was going to be a reality. That friend ended up not coming along, but the more people I told about my excitement to do this, the more I knew I really would do it.

Road to Blinman

Approaching the Mawson Trail in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia

  1. How do I know what bike to take?

There seem to be two philosophies.

The first is take a totally standard bike with standard everything. Things will break and you will need to fix them – which will be possible. This philosophy relies on there being replacement bike parts wherever you are. Even if the part is not available (if you are on the Pamir Plateau in Tajikistan), but there are always people to help, makeshift tools to borrow, and hacks to be made.

The second is to buy an expensive high-end bike with ‘unbreakable’ parts that are built to survive a lifetime. If they break, the parts are so uncommon and unheard of outside of the western world, you will be stuck. Take spare parts of the most uncommon things and hope that everything really is unbreakable. This is the option for the total technically incapable bike user.

I am hopeless with bike maintenance and I followed the second philosophy.

Road to Mimili

In the aboriginal APY Lands in northern South Australia.

After going on a 1000km bike tour in Norway and my bike collapsing beneath me (spoke after spoke broke), I went to a bike shop I trusted and let them go through all the different options regarding bikes and their parts, and I ended up with the bike I needed for my adventures.
 

  1. What should I take?

Take photos of home and photos of your bike trip up to now to give to the beautiful people you meet on the way. They really appreciate it. It’s wonderful to share your trip with them, like they are sharing their life and home with you!
 
What else? It depends on where you go. I went through hot and cold areas. In the mountains and desert I needed to cook for myself and be more independent. In south-east Asia, there’s cheap and good food to be had everywhere, so I sent my cooking things home for that leg. A tent there is not needed (as it is too hot), but a hammock and mosquito net is a plus.

In general you will need a bike, panniers, a sleeping bag and mat, clothes and repair stuff. Most cycling blogs have a list of things they took. Here is my list: https://arctic-cycler.com/equipment/

Money money money

US$100 in Uzbekistan som.

  1. How do you prepare your route? What about the visas?

I read blogs. I got excited reading blogs. And videos. I’m going there and it will be amazing! I read blogs to see what the options are. In general, cycling from Europe to Australia, you go through Europe, Turkey, Iran (or Azerbaijan if you are American and can’t get an Iranian visa) and then either Central Asia and China, or India and Burma. From there, it’s down through Thailand and Malaysia to Singapore. Many people fly from Singapore. I cycled through Indonesia to East Timor – an absolute highlight. Here is my list of blogs that inspired me: https://arctic-cycler.com/links/
 
For visas, it is an ever-changing story. Iran, Central Asia and China are the most challenging. I was lucky enough to apply for my Chinese visa in Tehran in the short window of time they were handing out 90 day visas with no questions asked. I understand they no longer do this. The latest up-to-date information can be found on http://caravanistan.com.

Vero giving us tips on the Pamir Highway

The touring cyclist legend Vero in Dushanbe, Tajikistan.

  1. How should I train for it? Will I be able to do it?

The bike journey is not a race – it is a life journey, and you have time to do it. Start slowly and stop to smell the flowers (there are lots around at the moment in the desert – it has rained a lot). Cycling will get you fit for cycling, and as you go on, you will do more, you will seek more challenging and amazing roads and places, and you will become more confident with what you can achieve.

I have met world cyclists of all ages from 18 to 72. I have met westerners, Chinese, Thai. I have cycled with people on budgets of $5 a day (including cycling in Australia). Sure, save some money up to do it, but don’t wait too long. You can start today. Who knows what might happen tomorrow. Your plans may be Trumped by a new situation, and your dreams may remain just that – dreams.

This was an article I wrote for the BikeSA blog in November 2016.

The thai cyclist

A thai cyclist we met that has covered over 100,000km by bike.

BikeSA Blog: A world bike-trip summary

Posted: November 6, 2016 in Cycling

Getting back into the non-nomad life is taking some getting used to. Some irons are in the fire as I look into what my future life here will involve. I have made some new cycling friends, and am helping out a bit at BikeSA. Here is an article I wrote for their blog on my little bike trip. 🙂

The Bay of Kotor

The Bay of Kotor

BikeSA Blog Post: http://www.bikesablog.com/2016/11/a-world-cycle-it-will-change-your-life-at-any-age/


The trip is over. At Brighton beach a photographer from the local newspaper took photos of me and my father at the jetty where my mother’s ashes are scattered, and where the bike trip ended. A few small words in the local papers to mark the end of the trip, and the start of the next stage of my life.

Article in the Adelaide Advertiser

Article in the Adelaide Advertiser

Article in the Messenger

Article in the Messenger


The 41483km bike trip has come to an end, and I have been working on the final video. It’s a long finale to this two year trip. I hope you like it.


They were all there. They used to call themselves Judy’s Remnants. All of mum’s friends that used to meet for coffee. Through them, mum was there too. Welcoming me home. It’s been a long trip.

The Arch of Remembrance

The Arch of Remembrance

We adjourned to a restaurant for lunch and chatted. The afternoon was spent by myself – at the jetty, at the cemetery. I watched the sunset. I have seen so many sunsets over the jetty. Now, this is the last sunset of my bike trip. The end of this chapter of my life, and the dawn of the next one.

41483km

41483km

Brighton at sunset

Brighton at sunset

Brighton at sunset

Brighton at sunset


I took the lead today, navigating without a map. This was the tourist trail of Adelaide for Clement, and cycling in extremely known territory for me. Past Mt Lofty – the highest hill behind Adelaide. Past Cleland National Park where you can pat the koalas. Past the city, along the river, along the beach. It’s unreal being here. It doesn’t feel part of this world trip, so familiar is everything, but it is. It is the end. The final chapter of this life-changing journey.

Beach

Beach

Mt Lofty

Mt Lofty


We woke up in the rain. It was cold rain, and it continued all the way to my father’s house in Balhannah. No photos. It was a case of – let’s get this over with. The final run down to the suburb of Brighton where I was born can be done when the weather is better.


Sitting around the fire we both knew this was the end. The end of the trip for me, and also for Clement who wants to start working for a year in Australia. Over the last six months we have got to know each other like a married couple. Now this married couple is going to part ways as our common journeys reach their conclusion. Now it just feels like a void ahead. It is going to be a turbulent, self-exploring time.

Vineyards

Vineyards

Tonight we circled around how, deep down, everyone feels insecure and weak, and how this expresses itself so differently in different people. No matter what Clement does, he will only feel average. If he can do something, it must be easy. Quite simply, he is more technically skilled than me – at cycling, at fixing bikes, at lighting fires– you name it. He thinks that everything we do, as he can do it, it must be easy. The fact that I find it hard is impossible to fathom, and he repeats, over and over again, how easy it is, and how everyone can do it. This drives me insane.

When I was at school and university, I was one of the best academically. It was very important for me to be the top, and I worked very hard to get there. In the narrow field of solving academic puzzles that definitely had a solution, if I couldn’t find a way to use the theorems we had at hand, the problem must have been impossible to solve. If I was shown otherwise, I didn’t like it. This was something that I was good at – among the vast majority of things I was bad at in my mind, and I felt I needed external appreciation for this one thing I was good at. People had to think that I was good. Why I need this external appreciation I don’t know.

I am very happy, and also proud of this bike trip. I feel so free, seeing the world. I like to think that not everyone can do this (I need to feel good at something). Being reminded that I am worse than the ‘average’ Clement is hard to take sometimes. Feeling insecure expresses itself so differently in Clement and in myself. It is very interesting.

I left my job to go on this trip. For me that was the hardest thing to do. Would I be worthy of a job as good as this at the other end? I am now at that other end. I did not pride myself at being good at the job I did, so I was allowed in my mind to feel average about it. People confirmed over and over that I was good at the job. Why was my job not something I pride myself in like my academic success at university? Yes, this is all very contradictory. The end of this bike trip is a whirl of feelings and emotions in my mind. This will be a turbulent time ahead.

Today we cycled in the sun with Nico – the last little leg of our short stint together, and it has been a lot of fun. Nico brought new perspective on everything with lots of discussions. Yes – the cycling adventures, but today also a lot of religion and, in particular, Buddhism. Our paths diverged at Greenock where we had lunch and slept on the park lawn in the sun.

Lying in the sun

Lying in the sun

We then had a beautiful cycle through the Barossa Valley – Australia’s most famous wine area, including a fun wine tasting.

Seppeltsfield

Seppeltsfield

Langmeil winery

Langmeil winery

Tomorrow is the final pedal to my father’s house in the Adelaide Hills, and from there it is a short ride downhill to the last metres of the trip – Brighton Jetty where my mother’s ashes are scattered.


We have inspired Nico who is approaching his 60000km. He twisted our arms, and so we did it. 60000km, 44000km and 41000km written on our bums. It was too cold to cycle today. It was just for the photo. I’ll have to get the photo from Nico.

60000, 44000 and 41000 from home

60000, 44000 and 41000 from home

Today was the Riesling Trail in Clare. Wine tasting and then lunch in the rolling hills of the Clare Valley. Again, a lot of laughing. We’re a funny threesome. I didn’t have time to get emotional today. It’s a new dynamic with an extra team member, and so I don’t notice how the kilometres remains are dwindling rapidly. Before I know it I will be standing on the beach in Brighton, and that will be it.

Clare valley

Clare valley


‘It is not normal to come into a pub, breathe our air and enjoy our warmth and not drink or spend money. It is just not normal.’
Was it that we didn’t spend any money (although I bought a coffee)? Was it that we spoke with the new barlady in Chinese, and amongst ourselves in French? Whatever it was, we removed ourselves from the bar in Spalding. The atmosphere was poisonous.

Me and Nico

Me and Nico

None of us liked forcing our bikes through the mud today. It is OK on the Oodnadatta Track in the middle of the desert, or in central Africa slogging through the mud where there are no other roads. Pushing 2km from one bitumen road to another in the drizzle isn’t fun. I’m glad we all agree on that.

On the other hand, eating a value-pack bag of Violet Crumbles for lunch was all our definition of fun. But, most fun today were the conversations the three of us had around the fire. No stories of adventure but stories on spirituality, Chinese politics, the future of the human race and also about sex. A thoroughly enjoyable evening.