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A full moon at 3am with a clear sky. The air is cool and still as the lone cyclist slowly crawls up the mountain. I can see the whole valley in the colourless light, the trees casting shadows in the moonlight. Everyone is sleeping. Just the crickets keep me company and the odd dog that howls as I pass. I feel excitement cycling at night, and peace in this beautiful night landscape. I am climbing to see the sunrise at Kelimutu.

Sunrise at Kelimutu

The sunrise is stunning from my vantage point above the volcanic crater-lake. The black slowly gives way to the deepest blue on the horizon, and the landscape grows in detail. As the horizon turns to pink, the clouds roll over from the neighbouring crater like water flowing over a stone, only to evaporate above the lake.

Kelimutu

I start talking to a guy from Lembata island (to the east of Flores). Yes! There are boats. I can go there and get to Alor island, and from there to Altapupu on Timor island near the border with East Timor. I had read about this on the internet, but I saw no confirmation that this boat exists. Well, it does, and I am going to take it! Very cool!

When I finally got going from Moni – the village at the base of Kelimutu, I was expecting a smooth descent to the coast. Well, there seemed to be more up than down, and as I crawled over the endless ups, I realised I was tired. The early morning and the many long days recently have taken their toll. I stopped at Koka beach at 3 and decided to call it a day.

Mountain village

Koka Beach