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Today it was overcast all day. I had plans of cycling along the Andøya island through the night under the midnight sun. The north coast of the island faces the right direction to have a permanent sunset the whole night. My plan was to cycle to a place called Bø on the south side of the island, sleep in the late afternoon/evening, and leave around midnight to cycle through the night. With a thick cloud cover this seemed pointless.

Handy fact: the wind dies down when it is cloudy. Verified my multiple locals. Today was a day to speed through some kilometres.

I said goodbye to my lovely Couch Surfing host Svein before he left for work.

Me and Svein

I agreed with Volker (the German I met in Fiskebøy) to pass by his camping ground in Sortland on the way through. He leaves a lot later than me typically, and maybe he might be ready after my 16 km to the camping ground. He needed another hour, and wanted to go more slowly, so we parted our ways.

Me and Volker

I soon verified what I had heard: overcast means less wind. I started off at a good place, glad to be above 20 km/h more than below it. When I was having my snack of sugar rich foods, a man cycled past on a rickety bike, sat down, and asked where I was going. He announced that he was training, and going to Risøyhamn, and asked if he could join me. He didn’t look very sporty, but, why not. After a while I offered him some oil for his chain. That made cycling with him much more pleasant. 🙂

He stopped for lunch 10km before Risøyhamn, and I went on. I met a Frenchman cyclist slogging his way up a very steep bridge just before Risøyhamn. We met again in the supermarket and ended up picnicking at a table they had there. His name is Alexis from Paris. We were both going in the same direction, and left together to cycle along the Andøya island.

It remained grey but easy cycling. The further north we got on the island, the nicer it became. The road skimmed the coast at the edge of high steep cliff faces. Sometimes tipped with cloud, the atmosphere was more imposing and threatening than in the glaring sun of the last days.

Andøya

It was then that I heard a ‘ping’. I investigated and found that two spokes had snapped on opposite sides of the back wheel. The wheel was not buckled and seemed ok, so I continued. I will miss the first ferry to Senja island tomorrow and get the spokes fixed in Andernes. I have spokes and could do them myself in theory, but, if I can leave it to an expert, better do that.. 🙂

Then we passed through Bleik, and took one photo after the next. High imposing cliff faces, bathed in clouds, with fields of yellow, white and purple flowers at the base. Rocky peaks sticking out of the water as backdrop to the bright, white sandy beaches. Very beautiful.

Andøya

Andøya

Andøya

Andøya

The tent is now set up in Andernes. Dinner is eaten. Tomorrow morning a trip to the bike shop and a coffee with Alexis and/or Volker (who is in Bleik 10km away).

The forecast is for rain, rain and more rain as of Saturday. The slog to the north cape will make demanding.. 🙂