Posts Tagged ‘Turkey’


Balloon carrying clowns, camping out at the ‘carpet area’, professional photo opportunities, being fed to explosion, and a night out at the theatre watching 100 years since the Çanakkale victory. A fantastic roller coaster ride of Turkish hospitality. Love it!

With one of our hosts Emir in Bilecik

With one of our hosts Emir in Bilecik

It was one of those nights. Lying on our mats in the hall at the local football field (‘carpet area’), James and I looked at each other, our mouths open. We didn’t know where it was all going. We knew it would be good, being led by our amazing hosts in the town of Bilecik.

The carpet area bedroom

The carpet area bedroom

Zooming down from our first ascent to 600m into the town of Yenisehir, we were greeted by a clown, on the side of the dusty road plied by cement trucks, holding a bunch of colourful balloons.
‘Dur! Dur!’ (Stop! Stop!)
I stopped, and the clown took a selfie with both of us.
Then I did too.
Why was he there, I hear you ask..
I don’t know.

Welcoming clown in Yenisehir

Welcoming clown in Yenisehir

Zooming down from our second ascent, this time from 700m into the town of Bilecik, we were greeted by 2 young men in fluorescent yellow safety vests next to bikes, the Turkish flag fluttering above the bikes in the breeze.

Me and our hosts Emir and Hakan

Me and our hosts Emir and Hakan

‘Hello friends. I am Hakan, and this is Emir. Welcome to Bilecik. First we eat, then we show you the town, and then we go to the carpet area.’
We had been in touch with Hakan through warm showers.
The food was delicious and copious – perfect for hungry cyclists.

Dinner in Bilecik

Dinner in Bilecik

We were shown the gardens of the town hall where we were photographed by a photographer – for the local newspaper perhaps? The Bilecik Facebook page? No idea..

At the town hall in Bilecik

At the town hall in Bilecik

After setting up camp at the carpet area, our other Warm Showers contact Fikret, asked if we want to go to the theatre that night. Why not? Off we went, wearing our best evening wear. We were introduced to everyone at the theatre. ‘Welcome to Bilecik, my friend!’

Theatre in Bilecik

Theatre in Bilecik

Tonight was a performance on 100 years of Çanakkale – a terrible battle at Gallipoli – equally horrific for our Turkish hosts and the ANZACS as we were called (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps – which James and I were representing). Here 250,000 Turks, Australians, New Zealanders, French and British died in a blood bath for access to the thin straights of water connecting the Mediterranean to the Black Sea. I saw the battle fields first had last year by bike.

Çanakkale theatre production

Çanakkale theatre production

Perched at the back of the theatre looking down, we saw the play – video combination of fighting at Çanakkale. At the break James was thrust a phone into his hand. It was a journalist.
‘What do you think about the Çanakkale victory?’
A lot of young people were killed in a horrible war. Here is the newspaper article.

What a day – and night. Not speaking Turkish, one can only go with the flow, knowing that whatever happens, with our lovely hosts, it will all be good.


Cycling through the mountains today I suddenly realised – we are cycling across the world. We are on our way across some of the most amazing parts of the planet. Now away from the bustle of Istanbul, we breathed a sigh of relief cycling through little Turkish villages to our very welcoming warm showers host on Lake Iznik.

Small village on the way to Lake Iznik

Small village on the way to Lake Iznik

The mind is willing but the body is weak. Three months of break means those legs are not as strong as they were. We left the main road from Yalova and hit the slopes. Up to 550m, passing some rubbish avalanches

Rubbish avalanche

Rubbish avalanche

and through some lovely mountain villages.

Mountain village

Mountain village

Mountain village

Mountain village

A calorific lunch at Lake Iznik before pressing on to Iznik town.

Picnic on Lake Iznik

Picnic on Lake Iznik

Our warm shower hosts Soner and Inci are amazing, having cycled all around Europe with their 2 year old boy and written two books. After a delicious meal we pondered our upcoming route to the Black Sea. Our route going forward becomes more hilly. Those legs had better get into shape quickly. The mind wants it that way!

Me and James with Soner and Inci

Me and James with Soner and Inci



After three months of winter break in Australia and Taiwan, departure from Istanbul has been imminent.. for over a week. Waiting for James’ frame to pass customs, we have been poised for departure every day. Goodbye the new Green Pedals Istanbul schools. Goodbye my wonderful warm showers host Dinçer. Goodbye Istanbul. And… Hello wide world. The second leg of the bike trip begins!

Farewell to Dinçer and Can

Farewell to Dinçer and Can

James and I descended on Istanbul last week, ready for the continuation of our adventure. Unlike James, his bike was not ready for departure, waiting on an essential new part (a new frame) to be cleared through customs. Today a week of waiting and of imminent departures has come to an end. Straight from the bike shop, we pedalled along the Sea of Marmara coast to Pendik, and caught the ferry out of Istanbul to Yalova.

Farewell at Bisiklet Gezgini bike shop in Istanbul

Farewell at Bisiklet Gezgini bike shop in Istanbul

Thank you Dinçer for your amazing hospitality! It has been great staying with you. All the best with your ultra marathon – 200km in the alps – wow!

I will continue writing daily blog entries, but will delay them before publishing. Stay tuned for updates once every 3-4 days.


‘Ben bir çilginim’ – ‘I am crazy’.
That’s how I started my talk with the school children in Istanbul. I visited the Anakent and Birsoz primary schools in Istanbul as part of a Green Pedals activity, talking about sustainability. What an amazing bunch of kids!

Me at the Anakent school

Me at the Anakent school

On my bike trip I am working with Green Pedals – part of the Planet Green foundation, to start and maintain a dialogue on sustainability in schools around the world.

The kids at the Anakent and Sener Birsoz schools knew a lot, and were really engaged talking about the environment and sustainability.

Anakent school

Anakent school

Sener Birsoz school

Sener Birsoz school

Sener Birsoz school

Sener Birsoz school

The kids are making drawings showing how they and their families are sustainable, and about my cycle trip. A new weekly sustainability workshop will be starting on sustainability at the Sener Birsoz school. A really cool initiative. Thanks to the whole Istanbul Green Pedals team!

James and I will be leaving Istanbul very soon. James’ new bike frame is currently still held up in Turkish customs. We’re keeping our fingers crossed that it will be released today so we can leave catch the boat on Friday evening to Yalova, and then continue our journey. Yay!


My last day of cycling for 2014. It has been an amazing trip. I am now left with my memories, some great new friends, and my three dog rocks. They won’t be needed any more now.

The three dog rocks - for aggressive dogs (of which there are many)

The three dog rocks – for aggressive dogs (of which there are many)

In the book ‘On the Beach’ by Nevil Shute, radiation from a huge world war that killed everything in the Northern Hemisphere was slowly creeping south. When the book started, Brisbane went ‘out’ (died of radiation). Finally the radiation reached Melbourne, and people made the most of their last days before the radiation killed them too, and there was nothing left alive. On my bike trip I have been running from the winter. Places became too cold just after I left them. The rain and cold has arrived in Istanbul. James is fleeing for the winter, leaving today. I am left, with a forecast of rain, rain and rain. I will try to move my flight out forward. The first part of my bike trip from Holland to Australia is complete, and it is time to call it a day.

On the Beach. Nevil Shute

On the Beach. Nevil Shute

The road from Gönen to Bandirma was freeway-like and very uninteresting. My boat to Istanbul is in the evening, and I am sitting in a warm cafe in Bandirma watching people walk by. My departure from Eindhoven 2.5 months ago seems a lifetime ago. So much has happened – so many amazing places I’ve seen, incredible people I’ve met, and things that have happened. And the great thing is, there is a LOT more coming up next year. As my friends in Boston say – ‘AWESOME’. See you all next year!

The road from Gönen

The road from Gönen

Day 74. 74km. Çan – Gönen

Posted: November 28, 2014 in Cycling, Turkey
Tags: , , ,

Good cycling roads are different to good driving roads. A good cycling road has few cars, and no fast cars. It therefore needs to be windy, have some bumps and potholes, and pass through many small villages. Today the road to Gönen was never signposted as such. A good sign! I confirmed that it actually did go to Gönen and had a lovely, peaceful ride through the Turkish countryside.

On the way to Gönen

On the way to Gönen

This feels like the real Turkey I want to cycle through. No big freeway-like roads, but small roads where everyone waves. Small villages with chickens waddling around. And regular stops to eat Börek and other pastry delights. Oh, and quite a few vicious dogs – the three rocks are always ready in the back pockets of my cycling tricot.

A small Turkish village

A small Turkish village

On the way to Gönen

On the way to Gönen

Little did I know, but Gönen is quite a tourist centre – in the summer. It is famous for its hot springs, and there is a squillion hotels and pensions clustered around the spring and public hammam. I didn’t know this, and didn’t find them initially. A kind man who spoke German helped me find them, and also explained how the hammam worked. The hammam was wonderful, and I feel squeaky clean again! 🙂

My friend helped me find a cheap pension

My friend helped me find a cheap pension


A little kitten, all alone, meowing on the side of the road. Outside in the cold. I almost tried to take her in my handlebar bag. Passers-by didn’t seem too concerned. Maybe they didn’t understand me. She might freeze. Or get squashed.

A lonely little kitten

A lonely little kitten

After all the cold days, I was worried about climbing into the mountains. There was no need. It was short-sleeve weather for me (about 6C, I think – I overheat easily, as James can testify to). It was also big head-wind weather today. As I crawled along the valley, I was a bit worried about reaching Çan before sunset. (In the end, I made it easily.) And, finally, it was impressive cloud weather today. Although sometimes dark and looming, the clouds kept their water to themselves.

Up the valley from Çanakkale

Up the valley from Çanakkale

Up the valley from Çanakkale

Up the valley from Çanakkale

The road to Çan

The road to Çan

Looming clouds

Looming clouds

See how small she is

See how small she is

Thanks to the kind hotel manager at the Anzac Hotel in Çanakkale, I am now in a hotel that I would have never have found. Recommended as a cheap hotel, it is inside the security wall of a ceramic factory. It reminds me a bit of the teacher accommodation we stayed at in Lüleburgaz. It is a hotel, but, not for the normal public – or at least, it is not widely advertised. Its perfect for a tired cyclist! 🙂


The sun came out on this frosty day as I peddled alone on the wind-swept peninsula. Outside, I only heard the tranquil sound of the wind and the waves, but inside I felt the earth shudder, the chatter of rifles, and the screams of pointless death around me – almost 100 years ago. Tiny knolls in an all too common rolling-hill landscape have great significance by the death burden they carry. Today I felt that burden, and cried.

Anzac Cove

Anzac Cove

What a peaceful place. I was alone today. The roads were empty. Some farmers ploughed their fields. Some people were picking olives. Most of the time, it was me, the sun, the wind, and my thoughts. Thoughts of what happened here 100 years ago. How insignificant and mundane the famous beaches were. I stopped at Beach V – one of the Allies’ landing points at the southern tip of the Gallipoli peninsula. There was hardly a beach at all.

Beach V

Beach V

There were two areas – two little specks of land – that were held by the Allies for the extent of the Gallipoli battle. One was at the tip, and one at Anzac Cove. The Helles Memorial overlooks Beach V.

Helles Memorial

Helles Memorial

Around Anzac Cove, small knolls, undulations, crags, all have Australian names. They were too insignificant to have Turkish names. Now their significance is burned into history. I visited a cemetery near Anzac Cove. Protected from the wind, there was an eery silence. The lawn was lush and the sky was blue. A bird flapped overhead. I stood there amongst the gravestones. Men aged 22, 21 – I saw one 17. All died in 1915. Here where I stood were trenches.

Cemetery

Cemetery

They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning,
We will remember them.

At the going down of the sun

At the going down of the sun

In the morning

In the morning

Monument to the Fallen

Monument to the Fallen

Words of Atatürk

Words of Atatürk


Today was a day of thoughts. The road was straight and the wind was strong, and my thoughts were on Australia and my youth. I had studied the war-poet Wilfred Owen at school, and I felt a lump in my throat as I approached the almost sacred Anzac territory of the Dardanelles and the Gallipoli peninsula. My family was here 100 years ago, as were the families of the lovely people around me that have welcomed me to their country. War is such a horrible thing.

On the road to Çanakkale

On the road to Çanakkale

Rugged up like a mummy I went out into the cold – which wasn’t that cold. I peeled off the layers and basked in the sun (briefly). And who was there, but the 2 French girls James and I met in Croatia before entering Bosnia Herzegovina?

I meet the French cyclists again

I meet the French cyclists again

It was a day of clouds and sun, with beams of light piercing the clouds to make for beautiful vistas.

Sunset in the military museum.

Sunset in Çanakkale

Sunset in Çanakkale

And, just after having installed myself in the Anzac Hotel (an appropriate place for my stay), I stumbled across 3 heavily laden bikes with 3 bike tourers – a group of friends from France cycling to Iran in the winter (!). We ended up having a lovely evening sharing our left-wing radical views and discovering some common interests and activities of touring cyclists. Follow them on their blog: http://bikingtotehran.tumblr.com

Touring cyclist get-together

Touring cyclist get-together


Is it cheating? Well, no. I’ve already cycled all the way from Holland to Istanbul. This is just a side-trip waiting for my flight to take me away from the winter. But, yes. It was cold, windy and very bleak, and I hitched a lift with a truck. Such a lovely offer.

Such a warm offer.

Such a warm offer.

On arriving in Istanbul my state of being flipped. It switched in a nanosecond. I was a world-cycler, ready to battle through wind and rain, up hills and through traffic to get to my goal. Once my goal was reached, I became an exhausted shadow of myself, ready to nod off at a minute’s notice all through the day, finding it difficult to muster up the energy to negotiate Istanbul’s slopes on foot. My body was tired, and so I stopped, and became a lounger. The weather was perfect for lounging – rain, grey and cold.

Grey Istanbul

Grey Istanbul

My cycle trip for 2014 finishes on December 5 with a flight to Australia and then Taiwan before returning to Istanbul at the end of February. Bleak as it is, after 3 days in Istanbul as a pedestrian tourist, Drahtesel was calling – ‘ride me, ride me.’ I want to visit Galipoli, a very important place for Australians, New Zealanders, and Turks for where a lot of lives were lost in the First World War.

Drahtesel may have been calling, but, at 5am when the alarm went off to catch the early boat across the Sea of Marmara to Bandirma, I wasn’t motivated. In negotiating the steep stairs of the B&B with Drahtesel, a water bottle fell off and broke. Why am I doing this? Riding off into the dark, the wind and the rain? Without a definite goal in front of me, this trip was not motivating.

The road was freeway-like (like the D100 towards Istanbul), but not much traffic, and less hilly. It was cold, though – the days of frolicking in the turquoise waters are past.

The grey road to Biga

The grey road to Biga

Feeling sorry for myself, sheltering from the wind at a service station, eating a chocolate bar, a kind truck driver offered me a lift to Biga. I was planning on stopping there for the night. A 30km trip in the warmth was much more appealing that on the bike in the cold. Time for a cheat. 🙂

The kind truck driver

The kind truck driver

Now in Biga, things feel different. I am warm, and am being showered by gifts. The truck driver gave me biscuits and apples. The hotel owners any number of cakes, biscuits and turkish delight. And the butcher gave me my whole meal for free. I am a friend. Lovely people, everyone!

Thank you Adnan for the lovely dinner

Thank you Adnan for the lovely dinner

Çanakkale is about 100km away, and I am looking forward to seeing the place where the Anzac soldiers fought. How will I get there? Probably by cycling. Or maybe, if a nice truck driver stops…