Posts Tagged ‘Senakin’


‘Is there jungle there?’ he asked pointing to the centre of Australia on the map.
A big space with nothing on the map must be jungle.
‘No.’
‘Is there snow?’
‘No. It is hot, and there is nothing.’
I showed some photos of the centre of Australia. No. The centre of Australia is definitely not Borneo.

The heart of the palm

The heart of the palm

We were shown the jungle out the back of the house. It was fascinating – and so rich with food and fascinating plants – most of which I had never seen before. A kind of jelly fruit – a bit like duku. An orange deformed shape that tasted like apricot. A red sphere that, when cracked open, was a lolly to be sucked but not eaten. Another green sphere which tasted like nothing and was hollow on the inside. All this was in the back yard next to the paddy fields. The family chopped off a heart of the palm for us, and the mother prepared it while we swam in the river flowing past.

Squishy fruit

Squishy fruit

Unknown fruit

Unknown fruit

Before leaving the village, we had another movie star photo shoot. Clement walked down the road to the place for the photo like the Pied Piper of Hamlyn.

The pied piper of Hamlyn

The pied piper of Hamlyn

Today we took a long-cut through the hills, past lots of little villages. It was beautiful and very rural. What a beautiful, huge tropical island.

The country road

The country road

We had a nice evening stop with 3 girls Clement met when he was last here, and are sleeping in a huge, empty house. Really cool.


‘Do you want to try dog?’
We were whisked away on a motorbike to the neighbour’s house. Sitting on the floor circling a metal bowl in the dimly lit room was the family.
‘Please sit.’
He took a piece of bone from the top – a paw.
‘This is foot of dog,’ he informed, grinning from ear to ear.
‘What was the dog’s name?’ I asked.
‘Om.’

Signing the guitar with the family

Signing the guitar with the family

This is the Borneo of my childhood dreaming. We are staying with friends Clement met a week ago in a village in the hills – Dayak people. We approached the village in the dying light and drizzle. We marvelled at the beauty of the road as it wound its way between rice fields with a backdrop of a forested mountain with clouds rising from the side like steam from a hot road. After an amazing dinner, we are shown a tool used in hunting to blow a poisoned dart at the prey. Made of bone, it is carved in the form of a dragon. I held this long tool in my hand. One hundred years ago this very tool was used in the dense forest in Borneo. These people were cannibals in the past, we were told. And they ate all animals – pythons, squirrels, mouse deers.

The whole village came and looked on as we were given t-shirts with images of the traditional shield and sword. We were then asked to sign school bags, t-shirts and other things like we were film stars. The girls giggled with excitement as they had photos taken with us with the photo of the pope watching over us from the photo on the wall. This is a Christian village – converted by the Dutch missionaries in the far past. One after the other, and then in groups, we were photoed with everyone in all possible configurations.

The lovely Dayak family

The lovely Dayak family

Clement and I are once more a team.
‘Hello Mister!’ I cried out as I saw him waiting for me in the restaurant at the turnoff. A big hug, and then hours of recounting all our experiences since we parted ways. It’s great to see him again.
The road north from Pontianak along the coast was flat, boring and industrial. From the turnoff, the road passed into the hills. We were entering the real Borneo. Then, out of nowhere, the rain started, and it poured.

Tomorrow I will take some photos of this landscape. The rain prevented me from doing that today.