Posts Tagged ‘Mazdavand’


A quiet road winding through the rolling dry hills, slowly flattening out to a wide, dry expanse. Warm, but not roasting, cooled by the steady headwind, we plodded along to our goal – to be at the border of Turkmenistan, ready for the upcoming 5-day Turkmenistan dash.

The road to Sarakhs

The road to Sarakhs

Cycling with Thomas has a different focus. We stop for scenery shots – both him and I do that. Then, all of a sudden, I find myself sitting next to a mud hut in a small village, next to the village women rolling cheese. They sit around a central metal vat with a big chunk of white gooey mass, and take handfuls, rolling it into a diamond shape for drying. Grandmothers, mothers and little kids join in, laughing and talking as they work. We sit next to them drinking the tea they gave us, and tasting the bread and cream.

Cheese?

Cheese?

The little village

The little village

Then we stop next to a shepherd watching his sheep graze on the side of the road. A young boy – probably about 10 years old – he laughs and jokes with us. He suddenly whistles and bangs a stick on the road sign to put the sheep back into place. How life can be different to the one I have grown up with and know.

Shepherd

Shepherd

Sitting in the border town’s only hotel, our electrical devices hang from every powerpoint. Masses of water is bought, and I have filled my snack bag as well as possible in the small market that has little that I want to buy. Turkmenistan – here we come!

The road to Sarakhs

The road to Sarakhs


Three cyclists – briefly. Tea with the nomads. Riding the camels. Bats fluttering around in a huge cavern. Camping looking out over the wide expanse of barren, dry landscape. The desert is near.

Camels

Camels

I pulled up. And turned. A German number plate. It was a German that had driven from Munich, and was heading for Tajikistan. We met him again 2 km further down the road, where he had caught up with Thomas – another German cyclist that I had met in Tehran at the Turkmenistan embassy, and then again yesterday in Mashhad. Briefly there were three of us – Michael, Thomas and me. Michael continued when we stopped to say hello to some nomads, and we didn’t see him again.

The nomads invited us in to have a cup of tea.

In the nomad's tent

In the nomad’s tent

There were some flies

There were some flies

The nomads

The nomads

Then, just a few hundred metres further down the road, we saw camel herders. Before we knew it, we were on top of a camel, plying through the herd. It was a challenge getting off the camel. The camel didn’t like it much, groaned a lot, and refused to be patted. It was an amazing experience passing through the masses of camels. We were really welcomed by the lovely camel herders. They invited us for tea, but we had to move on.

Camels

Camels

Our camp is on the top of a mountain ridge that passes through the flat desert. From our tents, you can see for miles and miles over the arid plains below. Behind us is an entrance to a massive cavern inside the rock. We entered with our head torches to marvel at the bats circling. We are under the kind protection of the men from the military base. They showed us the caves, and are making sure we are safe.

Visiting the bats

Visiting the bats

Our military protection

Our military protection