Posts Tagged ‘Kulen’


‘Aren’t you afraid?’ he asked.
‘Why? Of what?’ I replied.
We were alone in the crumbling ruins of Prasad Koh Ker. The air was still, heavy with humidity. The cries of birds high up in the forest roof broke the silence for a moment – and then the blanket of silence returned.
‘Ghosts.’

The home of the ghost

The home of the ghost

I’m not sure who he was. He was working for the park in some way, I think. He was serious about the ghosts. It is just the place I would expect to find them.

Actually, that was at one of the side-temples of Prashad Koh Ker. I realised when I had found the real temple. There was a line of food and knick-knack stalls before the entrance. The temple had a large pyramid as its climax, and from the top, you could see for miles across the plains – even to Prashad Preah Vihear where I was yesterday.

Koh Ker Temple

Koh Ker Temple

View from Koh Ker Temple

View from Koh Ker Temple

But, I realised that Siem Reap, with its luscious cakes, was calling. I had had enough of hot Cambodian plains, sweating profusely, and becoming raw in certains areas – the Vaseline was losing its effectiveness. It would be one final dash to Siem Reap – a dash that would see me arrive in the dark.

A Chinese tourist at Trapeang Noem temple

A Chinese tourist at Trapeang Noem temple

From the side road to Siem Reap

From the side road to Siem Reap


The ridge of hills rises majestically from the plains on either side – Cambodia on one side, and Thailand on the other. The temple ruins – from another age – know no such border. Perched on the knoll, jutting out from the main spine, sits the temple, impervious to the swarm of army guards (more than tourists), and to the constant music breaking nature’s silence. The spirit of Preah Vihear temple runs deeper.

The majestic ridge

The majestic ridge

Like the ridge of hills, the road also rises up from the plains. The last kilometre gets the award for the steepest road of my trip. Even though the road surface was good, and I had an unloaded bike, I still pushed my bike up. I also pushed my bike down, as riding would result in locked wheels, and me sliding down out of control.

A steep descent with view over Thailand

A steep descent with view over Thailand

Preah Vihear temple

Preah Vihear temple

Preah Vihear temple

Preah Vihear temple

View out over Cambodia

View out over Cambodia

I got excited seeing the profile of the temple. What a view it would have!

I got excited seeing the profile of the temple. What a view it would have!

I returned to Sr’eam by 12, and so bit the bullet and cycled to the next guesthouse – 80km away. I like this eat away the kilometre challenge. Audio book on, I proceded into the heat of the Cambodian plains, arriving at my destination at dusk.