Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’

Day 265. 121km. Tad Lo – Pakse

Posted: November 22, 2015 in Cycling, Laos
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1000m up. 1100m down. Back to where I was this time 48 hours ago. Bolevan Plateau – tick. It was nice – nice to get into cooler climes, nice to cycle through some greenery away from Highway 13. It was also hard work. I’m ready for the main road again.

The looming clouds

The looming clouds

For the first time on my trip I have saddle sores. Ouch. All this sweating climbing a kilometre into the sky has made some parts very tender. The climb was constant but never terribly steep. It was a peaceful road and very pleasant.

The morning road

The morning road

Lots of coffee, and a big waterfall.

Coffee

Coffee

The top of the waterfall

The top of the waterfall

The waterfall

The waterfall


The desert is vast, rocky and barren, but much has been tamed. For much of the time, the road continues through endless vineyards and agricultural land. Then, when the village and civilization ends, the desert starts abruptly. In a dry creek bed, under the stars we lie, gazing at the heavens.

The stars

The stars

Crossing the back-blocks of China takes time. The roads are good and the kilometres pass (quickly or slower depending on the wind). There are many many kilometres to pass, and I count them down. When I entered China there were over 4000km to the start of the freeway. Now there are under 3000. The road is not busy, and we have the wide emergency lane all to ourselves. We stop every 20-30km for the regular fill of ice-tea and bingjiling (ice-cream). Breakfast, lunch and dinner is the same in China, and so I eat it when we stop. I have accepted my craving for cereal in the morning will remain unfulfilled.

Today we had a picnic lunch on a tree-lined lane between the vineyards.

At our lunch spot

At our lunch spot

And dinner just before heading off into the desert to camp.

Dinner stop

Dinner stop

The desert

The desert

Evening

Evening

My humble abode

My humble abode

Day 264. 90km. Pakse – Tad Lo

Posted: November 21, 2015 in Cycling, Laos
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There is a smell. I’ve only smelled it in Laos. A sweet fragrant aroma floating through the mountains. I don’t know what it is. I’ll call it the flower of Laos, and it was in great abundance today as I cycled along to the back door of the Bolevan Plateau.

The colourful road

The colourful road

After leaving the busy dual carriageway the road became quieter. The initial climb of 300m took the edge off the heat, and I had a pleasant meander through the green, lush landscape skirting the hills rising up to the Bolevan Plateau. It was a bit up-and-down, but nothing that slowed me down too much. I saw quite a few tourists on motorbikes waving at me, and congregating at the places mentioned in the Lonely Planet. Tad Lo is a vibrant little backpacker village next to a lovely little waterfall.

Happy kids

Happy kids

Papaya

Papaya

Green

Green

Tad Lo

Tad Lo


I cycled along the freeway in the backblocks of China thinking – this is a world full of beautiful people. People caring for their families and enjoying daily life. People with their hopes, dreams and worries.

Refreshment

Refreshment

Today I used my Chinese in a deep philosophical discussion about life and happiness. Life and happiness is the same the world over. I am an example of the human condition, and I am alive today, sharing this planet with others. I hope in the future, another generation of people can live these experiences, and carry on the human condition. It is a beautiful thing – the human experience – and I am honoured to be part of it today and now.

My other thoughts today as I struggled against the fierce wind were how developed China is. All the freeways are brand new and amazing engineering feats. The cities are springing up out of nothing, but are mostly already there. New, snazzy cars zoom along the freeways and in the cities. This is not an America wannabe. It is wealthy already. It is not like America, and it doesn’t wannabe.

The cycling was slow going today against the wind. We called it a day at the big town of Hami.

Day 263. 78km. Napong – Pakse

Posted: November 20, 2015 in Cycling, Laos
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An early start and a tailwind meant that I was in Pakse by lunch-time. The afternoon was spent planning where I will be cycling next. The Bolevan Plateau, here I come!

View from my guesthouse in Pakse

View from my guesthouse in Pakse


The rest-place on the freeway was occupied by a group of Chinese motorcyclists. We arrived and the cameras came out. All items on the bike were examined – bells rung, tyre pressure checked, panniers examined. I sat down and took out my sunscreen, which was ripped from my hand. What is it? Cameras pointed at me from all angles, I pulled out my phone and took a video.

Observers

Observers

The road climbed, onto ever higher plains skirting the mountains. It was here that I passed 16000km from Eindhoven.

16000km

16000km

Lunch was at the summit. A busload of Chinese tourists arrived, and it was an orgy of photos. Cameras and mobile phones abound. I posed dozens of times in front of the bike, giving the V sign or the thumbs up. I think we were the reason for the delayed departure of the bus. When we finally went for lunch, we found it had been paid for.

Day 262. 104km. Pakxong – Napong

Posted: November 19, 2015 in Cycling, Laos
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I was psychologically prepared for the heat. An early start in the cooler morning, regular stops (like I always do), and a midday sleep in a hammock made for a less heat stressed day. Oh. The road surface was better too.

In the hammock

In the hammock

It remained a boring road, though. One for endless podcasts and audio books to help the kilometres pass. Looking at the map, detours on more pleasant roads are unappealing in this heat. I think a nice hammock in the 4000 island area in the far south of Laos is much more appealing. Maybe with an exotic tropical fruit juice in hand.

Water buffalo

Water buffalo


‘What is huoche in English?’
‘Train.’ I answer.
I slam on the brakes. What is that symbol that I have seen everywhere that my Chinese app doesn’t recognize. ‘And,’ replied Achun.
Usually we speak in Chinese, and we get by. He is our spokesperson when we speak to others. We saw lots of people in the green, grape growing region. And then no-one – just cars zapping by as we passed the through rocky desolate plains.

The empty road

The empty road

I got up early to see the desert sand dunes that Shanshan is famous for. Although they look good, I really don’t like arriving, passing the tourist gate, and then the sand buggies, the camels, and the sleds that can all be hired to traverse the dunes. Achun was asleep when I left for the dunes, and asleep when I returned.

The Shanshan dunes

The Shanshan dunes

Today was always going to be a long ride. We followed the road parallel to the freeway until it fizzled out. Then it was just eating the kilometres, climbing up to 1200m before descending again to below 1000m. We’re staying in a little room in a restaurant. I’m glad I know where all these places are – lots of helpful information from a Chinese cyclist I me in Turpan.

Me and Achun

Me and Achun


My energy level collapsed as I cycled into the heat. The small road along the Mekong became dirt, and I crawled along it. Lying down on a bench under a little shop verandah, I wondered if I had dengue fever, and closed my eyes.

Lying down in the heat

Lying down in the heat

Mark had lost his energy as the first sign of dengue fever. I had no energy, and no appetite. Even sugary drinks were not appealing. Just water.
No. I didn’t have a temperature. I checked. It was just hot, and unlike my Uzbekistan heat experience, it was humid.

The dusty road

The dusty road

Listening to a new book while inching forward – a book on climate change, how society got to this point, and what needs to be done now – I thought about how unseasonably hot it is here now. The locals all mention it. In some of the more dire scenarios by 2100 this part of the world could have lethal heat waves. Heat waves that not everyone can escape from using energy consuming air conditioning. The people here have no escape and will feel the full brunt of the warming and climate change our use of fossil fuels has created.

After returning from the dirt to the main road – Highway 13, I passed the village that I had my eyes on for the evening. No aircon in the guesthouses. Only in a karaoke place 2km out of town nowhere near food. An aircon trumped lack of food. I felt the energy returning, lying naked under the fan and aircon combo. No, I don’t have dengue fever.


I left Turpan ready for the scorching desert without anything or anyone. Food for lunch and 11 litres of water. It didn’t seem like a desert – it was raining and quite cool, with villages, shops and people. Slowly, I navigated the fully loaded Drahtesel against the wind to above sea-level and beyond.

Mountain face

Mountain face

In Shanshan I met Achun who was also staying at my guesthouse in Turpan. He is cycling from Urumqi to Beijing with amazingly little luggage. Still, he has room for a good camera, and has taken lots of amazing photos from his bike trips around China.

In the mountains

In the mountains