Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


At the end of a pub-crawl the participants cannot walk, crawl out of the last pub and somehow make it home in the dark. The same is true for a volcano crawl, especially when the last road climbs to 2000m. I got cramp, walked up the last 400m and whizzed down the last 50km. I arrived well and truly in the dark.

Exhausted

Exhausted

Before leaving, I didn’t check on how far Madiun was, nor how high the volcano pass was. I had a leisurely breakfast with my new biking friends in Solo. It was great to meet them. I wish them all the best with their plans to improve Solo as a cycling city.

Cycling friends in Solo

Cycling friends in Solo

I had a date in Madiun this evening – with a lovely warmshowers host that Clement stayed with. Actually, my host Ammia later told me that she couldn’t be there, but had booked and paid for a hotel for me, and arranged lots of friends to meet up with me. I had to be there.

After a lot of climbing, I stopped for lunch, and looked at just how high this mountain was. I was at 800m altitude, and the pass was 2000m. The last 12km climbed 1200m. Ouch!

Note to others doing this pass – don’t take the old road (called the alternative road). It is much much steeper.

View of the much less steep new road from my vantage point on the old road

View of the much less steep new road from my vantage point on the old road

If I didn’t have my date in Madiun, I would have stopped, and finished the pass tomorrow. While walking up the mountain, realising that I was going to have to cycle down in the dark, I decided to accept any lift that I might have been offered to the top. I had cramp, and couldn’t cycle. I was hot and bothered and just wanted to get there. Many cars passed with their windows down, giving me the thumbs up.
‘How are you, mister?’
‘Tired!’
That got a chuckle.
No lift was offered, and I was not at the point of actively asking for one yet. I kept on going, and at 17.15 was at the top. I have no pictures of the views – there were none. Everything was in cloud the whole way.

I made it down the windy dangerous bit before dark, and then zoomed down the straight downhill roads all the way to Madiun. When I arrived I felt a great sense of achievement. 2000m and 110km in one day. I’m glad noone offered me a lift!

Thanks to Ammia, my warmshowers host, and all her friends in Madiun for a lovely evening. I enjoyed today!


In Australia the pub-crawl is an integral part of student life, going (and finally crawling) from pub to pub in an evening of drinking at a multitude of venues. In Java, a volcano crawl is the act of scaling (or crawling) volcano after volcano in a tour of join the dots. Today was volcano pair number two.

Merapi

Merapi

Today’s volcano pair – Merapi and Merbabu – were much more pleasant than the last pair. The road was a small road with quite a bit of roadworks, which meant there was little traffic. Cycling up the steep road, I was fascinated by the cloudscape above. Bright sun turned to dark clouds within minutes, and then back to bright sun. The volcanoes disappeared behind a cloak of cloud, only to reemerge an hour later. I passed small villages of ‘Hello misters,’ and rice fields. This is the way volcano crawls are meant to be.

On the way down

On the way down

The view below

The view below

I spent the evening with the lovely people from Kota Kita – an NGO in Solo with a focus on improving life in the city through policy change and community empowerment and participation. I also said hi to the cycling community who have lots of plans in the pipeline for this month.

The Solo cycling community

The Solo cycling community

Merapi

Merapi


Sitting on the stone surface of the temple, I looked out over the tropical fields with the steep, forested mountains as a backdrop, and tried to imagine how it must have looked over 1000 years ago when the temple was built.
‘Photo, mister.’
I failed.

Borobodur temple

Borobodur temple

It must have been in dense tropical forest, teething with life. The buzzing of insects, the calls of birds flying overhead, the smothering humid heat. The temple was for communication with the god – a mother earth and giver of sustainance. It must have been peaceful.
Cycling along a road I respond ‘Hello Mister,’ and cycle on. Sitting in a meditative pose on the temple – stationary – a ‘hello Mister’ is followed by a ‘photo, mister’, and then smiling for the camera, flanked by a stranger on either side. Today all that attention got to me. I jumped down from my perch to the level below to escape. Another time, I just said ‘Saya mau sendiri. Foto tidak bisa.’ – ‘I want to be alone. You can’t take a photo of me.’ Thankfully it started to rain, and I could take in the moment in peace.

The longer I cycle alone, the more I realise I like being alone. There is nothing better than pedalling along a quiet road in the mountains, or along the beach – just me and nature. I hope this trip is not making me unsuitable for a ‘normal’ life. I do want to return to one at the end of the trip.

Selfie

Selfie

My climb between the volcanoes was a bit of a fizzer. I took some photos of them on the way, but, when I reached the top of the pass, they promptly disappeared into cloud. A panoramic view was not to be had.

Sumbing

Sumbing

Sindoro

Sindoro

Thanks Raditya from Warmshowers Indonesia for dropping by in the evening. It was good to catch even though I am not cycling through Yogyakarta!


I am glad I have left the main roads. Yesterday I had small roads along the beach, and today small roads in the mountains. This means a lot of climbing, but it’s peaceful and beautiful in the forest and rice fields. I’m staying with a lovely family between two volcanoes. I hope to see the volcanoes tomorrow – there’s too much rain and cloud to see anything at the moment.

Rice

Rice

The rain came at the best moments today – just after I stopped for a break. At one of my breaks I was invited into a house to see the mother cooking sweets for sale at the local market.

The cook

The cook

Tomorrow between the volcanoes and then to Borobudur.


Today was a day of flat, straight, small roads along the beach with a 3-hour interlude of Sumatra-steep slopes that popped up out of nowhere. It was a day of food on the beach and chats – on the beach during the day, and at breakfast in Cilacap.

Alfian and his family in Cilacap

Alfian and his family in Cilacap

The coast is windswept with big waves crashing onto the sand from the Indian Ocean, and endless beaches. I stopped at several little collections of restaurants on the beach, watching the waves as I sipped on my iced coconut. The roads were good, and I enjoyed cycling on the flat. On looking at the terrain view of Google maps, I realise now that tomorrow will be a sweaty affair getting to the base of the volcano pass – there are lots of bumps to the north of where I am. It’s all good training.. ☺

Iced coconut

Iced coconut

The beach

The beach

Small path next to the beach

Small path next to the beach

Another meal

Another meal


The horizon above the dark-night sea was lit up by vast flickering bolts of white. The air had turned cool, and there was a wind blowing in from the sea. I jumped out of the hammock, packed my things and ran for cover. The hammock was blown horizontally by the wind, as the air became pregnant with expectation. But the rain never came. Hammock sleeping on Java.

My camping spot in the morning

My camping spot in the morning

I slept under a roof shelter in my hammock on the beach, under a bright lamp, among the collection of crowing roosters, and next to a thoroughfare of fisherman getting up at 3am to ply the waters in their boats. Well, I didn’t sleep.

Today I broke 100km on Java. No torrential downpour. Flat roads with a good road surface. Little traffic. It was a lovely evening with Alfian and his friends and family in Cilacap. I realise how lucky I am being able to cycle on this trip. My savings from my job in a rich country are enough to let me realise my dream. I hope Alfian and others, one day, can realise their dreams too! Him, and others, will be welcome in my home (when I find one).. ☺

The beach

The beach


The beach beckoned, as did quiet roads. Away I cycled, off the beaten track and through the rice plantation landscape to the beach. Tonight I will lie in my hammock, listening to the waves crashing on the shore.

The rice fields in the late afternoon light

The rice fields in the late afternoon light

The quiet road was also a bit bumpy. I had my second flat tyre in two days, and so decided to change the whole tyre. Also, as I could barely stop yesterday on the steep hills in the rain, I changed the brake pads too. The whole lot took over an hour, with the whole village watching.

Village entertainment

Village entertainment

I had my standard downpour at 2 today rather than 4. Time to eat some duku and manggis. ☺

Downpour

Downpour

Tomorrow will be a day meandering along the southern Java coast. Yay!


‘Come to my house!’
It was getting dark as I passed his house. What welcoming smiling faces after a day of traffic jams, fumes and noise.

Family

Family

Putrid air thick from the black fumes coughed out by the bikes, trucks and cars without filters. A packed road with trucks, cars between the trucks, and motorbikes between the cars – and then me, squashed between everything. Then there was the eternal noise of engines struggling up hills, or overtaking to get one car in front in the mayhem. And, to top it all off, my first serious banjir (blocked drainage causing the roads to turn to rivers). The traffic jam only lasted for 70km. The last 30km today had so few cars I could cycle at my own speed (in the rain).

Macet

Macet

Banjir

Banjir

Rain ahead

Rain ahead

Thanks Dony in Bandung for a great night last night!

Dony and team

Dony and team


Java is one big traffic jam. My great warm showers host Dony said that shortly after Bandung this will no longer be the case, but today was a day of cycling through the car and motorbike fumes, weaving in and out traffic, and waiting when the road was so full, even a little bike couldn’t squeeze past. Macet.

Macet in Bandung

Macet in Bandung

I am staying with Dony in Bandung – a great cycling guy who has given me lots of advice on my route forward on Java. Again, a great community of cyclists. Thanks for the hospitality! Coming soon: beach, volcanoes, temples – and quiet roads. I’m looking forward to it!!


Cramp. Already before lunch. Today was a stop-start affair – stopping to wait for the cramp to subside and then starting. Nafal (my warmshower host from Bogor) and I are at the top of the pass at Puncak in the nice, cool air, sleeping in the prayer room at the tourist information.

Me and Nafal

Me and Nafal

Three weeks of air-conditioned malls in Jakarta have taken their toll. My first hilly day in Sumatra was the same after a week of feeding in Singapore. Cramp. It’s very frustrating. I feel fine, and want to continue, but I know if I move it will hit, and when it does, I buckle over in agony. The heat, the bright sun and the steep road did it – I sweated all the salt out of my body.

Today I felt like a chain-smoker. The road heading up out of Bogor was bathed in car fumes and noise. Climbing a pass isn’t meant to be stopping and starting waiting for a free space on the road while struggling up a hill. At the first chance, we left the main road and took the alternative route – one that was steeper but with much less traffic.

Mountain view

Mountain view

We find ourselves perched on the top of the pass with a beautiful view out over the valley, with dark clouds and the flickering of lightening, and a beautiful, bright rainbow.

Rainbow

Rainbow