Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


I jumped up out of my slumber at the café table to the sound of the pouring rain. My bike needed to be put under cover. When I went to sleep the sun was beating down in the dense forest, hilly landscape. Now the heavens had opened up and it was cold. The weather changes from one second to the next in the tropical rainforest in the depths of Borneo.

Waiting for the rain

Waiting for the rain

Afternoon snooze

Afternoon snooze

Today was a hot slog through the dense jungle. Contrary to expectations, there was a café after 30km and another after 50km – ideal for escaping from the heat, and rehydrating after the endless up and down. The effort is really worth it. The forest is beautiful, and was spectacular in the evening sun.

The jungle road

The jungle road

The jungle road

The jungle road

We’re staying with the kind owners of an organic farm, watching the bugs the size of small birds crashing into the roof next to the light. The mosquito net will be especially needed tonight – this is malaria and dengue fever territory.

The flies were big

The flies were big

Using the mosquito and kitten net

Using the mosquito and kitten net


‘Don’t shower naked here, or you will go blind!’
We needed to go inside to shower in the school.
‘The people in the village may curse you – and you will go blind.’
Not only naked showering could result in a blindness curse, but also running over chickens without paying compensation. Ten ringgits should be enough, though.

The road

The road

Expecting unrelenting steep hills in the blazing sun, we left early to get some distance before the heat started. The desperately steep hills didn’t come (except for one hard climb), and it wasn’t desperately hot either – hence the 112km today. We are now in the depths of Borneo in the mountainous forest. The bugs are chirping outside – and some of them are BIG.


‘My arms were burning. I was changing arms every 20 metres, and then I grabbed with both hands, steering the bike by shifting my weight on the saddle.’
Clement took a lift grabbing onto a truck, pulling the bike with his bare hands up the incredibly steep road.

18%

18%

The sun was pounding down and the heat was intense. The road turned a corner and started it’s incredible ascent of 1500m in just over 10km. The sweat poured down off me and I drank and drank. I drank 10 litres getting to the top, pushing my bike most of the way to avoid the cramp that was developing. This is the steep Borneo I was waiting for. It’s a challenge, and I lugged my bike all the way up there.

Slalom cycling

Slalom cycling

Mountain view

Mountain view

We met up with Will after parting ways a few days ago, to find ourselves being interviewed by a journalist that had seen him cycling into Keningau. We are spending the night in a city hall, dancing with the village kids to the beat pounding from the huge loudspeaker. I joined in. Hehe

Sunset

Sunset

Kids dancing

Kids dancing

Sunrise at the beach

Sunrise at the beach


Our night out in Labuan turned into a free day of recovery, and then a late start the next day. Following a coastal quiet road, we cycled alongside the beach, swimming in the bath-like water. I have my hammock set up overlooking the beach. Clement has his mosquito net slung up under a parasol, sleeping on a deck chair.

Our beach for the evening

Our beach for the evening

Thanks again Charles for the great time from Miri to Labuan. It was quite an experience of living it up. After all the partying, it’s nice to be on the road again, and sleeping in my hammock!

We’re all ready to meet up with Will again who left us in Brunei to take part in a mountain bike race. But first, there’s a 1500m climb in 10km. That’ll be fun!

The chocolate river

The chocolate river


The orange Mazarati stood next to the bright red Porsch in front of the spa resort and restaurant as our friend, paying for everything, beckoned us to take a seat. Labuan is the fun island of sin just off the coast of Brunei, and we find ourselves living it up here in an orgy of consumption and decadence. Thank you so much Charles for the experience!

Night club

Night club

‘There’s no time,’ said our Brunei cycling hosts.
We had met with them in the morning for another wonderful meal of Brunei delicacies under the supervision of the Sultan, hanging in tapestry form on the wall above us.
‘You should go straight to the harbour.’
That was our call to challenge, and there was not a minute to lose. We had to do 50km in 3 hours, see the mosque in the city, and arrive at the harbour at 1 to catch the boat at 2. So we hurtled along the highway in the mounting heat and ran into the mosque. We felt the air-conditioned silence and peace inside, surrounded by gold and the finest marble. Then off to the harbour. We arrived 10 minutes early only to find that the boat was leaving an hour earlier than expected. Running through customs, we threw the bike on the boat and darted inside – our visit to this little country lasted exactly 24 hours.

The mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan

The mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan

Labuan is the tax-free playground of the people from Brunei. Part of Malaysia, one can indulge in temptations here that are not to be had in it’s Sharia-law neighbouring state. Clement and I find ourselves with Charles staying in an apartment with four bedrooms and 5 bathrooms, with a 10th floor view over the island from (one of) the balconies. We would have played cricket inside, only Clement doesn’t know the rules. Today was non-stop dining. In the evening we were whisked away to see the sunset from a beautiful beach. We finally finished with whiskey and coke, continually refilled by the cute little waiters in white shirts and black ties plying the tables of the thumping music night-club.

Sunset on Labuan

Sunset on Labuan

Walking home with the music still ringing in our ears, Clement and I thought back on Borneo. Such an explosion of experiences and contrasts. We have been welcomed by many lovely native Iban families. We have cycled through jungle and through vast deserts of palm oil plantations. We have played pool in the mining outpost of an aluminium smelter. We have been welcomed in a private manor in Brunei, and lived it up on Malaysia’s Labuan island. Borneo – what is in store for us next?


‘What do you think of the sharia law in Brunei?’ I ask.
‘No problem,’ he replied. ‘There is nothing to worry about. In Brunei there is no thief. Noone does anything wrong. There are no hands cut off. There are no stonings.’
I am sure he is right.

A wonderful dinner with the Brunei cycling team

A wonderful dinner with the Brunei cycling team

We had a rest day in Miri with our new friend Charles. He showed us Miri and paid for absolutely everything. This is certainly not what we expect, but, wonderful to receive. We finished our day in Miri with a long night at the Irish pub with some pints of Guiness. This, of course, led to the late departure to Brunei. We were joined by Charles on one of his many ultra-light racing bikes.

Guiness

Guiness

Charles, Will, Clement and me

Charles, Will, Clement and me

Leaving at 11 meant a race along the flat freeway in Brunei with music pumping in my ears and the wind in my hair. We were welcomed by the Brunei cycling club, put up in their mansion and given a splendid meal of delicacies from Brunei.

Brunei was completely dead – like a zombie town – when we entered. Of course, we forgot, it was time for Friday prayer. Not a soul was to be seen.

Friday prayer

Friday prayer

The Brunei cycling team picked us up from the freeway and lead us to a huge house to stay, brought us to a wonderful dinner, and welcomed us with interesting conversations and fun. Thanks to the team in Brunei for the amazing welcome! It’s great to be here.


‘What is this smoke?’
‘It’s for the economy. They are burning here to plant palm oil plantations.’ The young man smiled with pride.
We passed a plantation that was younger – the trees were below eye level, and I could see the extent of it all. As far as the eye could see – a monoculture of the tree.

Palm plantations

Palm plantations

The road was straight, flat, and mostly through palm plantation. The parts between the plantations were smoky – preparing to join their neighbours.

Cycling into Miri we met a lovely guy that invited us to his place to stay. There is clearly money here – luxury apartment blocks, restaurants and shops everywhere. Miri is the border town with the ultra-rich country of Brunei. Our host, Charles, is a business man himself, and he told stories of the development of Sarawak province, and the new self-made millionaires.
Tomorrow is a rest day before heading on into country number 32 – Brunei.


‘Hey! You’re the 3 people cycling from Europe to Australia to promote saving water and using less plastic bottles!’
We had stopped in a truckie’s stop in the palm oil plantations. ‘You’re on the radio.’ I have no idea where that all came from.
The now famous Europeans are living it up in a dormitory settlement ‘Home away from home,’ for the local aluminium smelter workers. Air-con, a canteen, a shower and a pub with pool and beer. This is the life!

Green desert outpost

Green desert outpost

Today we were caught unawares. The rolling hills through the Iban people’s lands with many long houses and lots of food and water opportunities was suddenly replaced with a freeway through endless palm oil plantations. Cycling through the undulating landscape in the blistering heat with no shade found us running out of water. There was only the occasional tin lean-to with a security guard and nothing else. A green, hot desert where once there was tropical forest. Google sattelite view is depressing. Rows and rows of orderly lines. Rows and rows forming blocks and blocks, covering the landscape from the hills to the shore, and one wide freeway, plied by palm oil trucks, snaking its way to infinity in the heat.

We were helped by a very kind man from South Africa, working at the South African magnesium smelter which is being built. Fleeing from South Africa for the safety of him and his family, we heard stories from South Africa to curdle the blood. We also heard about the magnesium smelter here, which will process South African raw materials using subsidised electricity from the Malaysian government. Situated in the middle of this hot, green desert, the smelter will join the aluminium smelter and the village made from air-conditioned container buildings for the workers.
Will and I enjoyed an evening in this place with a frontier atmosphere, dining on the canteen food, playing pool and drinking a beer in the air-conditioned bar. The night-time heat hits you like a hammer when you leave the air-conditioning, though. We asked ourselves, how did we cycle 100km in today’s 47C heat?

Pool in the miner's township

Pool in the miner’s township


Will and I have similar bodies regarding calorie and water requirements. In comparison Clement needs almost none of both. A lack of communications and an hour food stop resulted in everyone worrying about the other, and everyone being stressed. We covered some distance today, but it was a push.

The road

The road

We had an early morning tour of the garden of our lovely Iban friends in Tamin before setting off.

The jungle garden

The jungle garden

Yet again we have been welcomed by a lovely family in an Iban long house. They have been busily making balls from rice-flour which, we believe, can be used to make a rice alcoholic drink. These people have such lovely smiles and such warm hearts. I like the Iban people!

Rice balls

Rice balls

Iban family

Iban family


‘You cannot stay here. Someone has died.’ The guy jumped on the motorbike. ‘But follow me, there is another long house down the road.’ We are staying with a beautiful family in the centre of a long house – a house on stilts housing over 200 people – the ultimate of communal living.

The Iban family

The Iban family

It is a custom that noone is invited into the home for a month after someone has died. Also people selling goods are turned away. Keen to help us, though, we were taken to the next long house a kilometre down the road.

Each family in the long house has a section which is several rooms deep, and ends on an outside area, also on stilts, out the back. From there, you can gaze at the stars, and listen to the jungle sounds. Religious pictures and crosses adorn the walls in this Christian house. The family are Iban people – native people of Borneo. We were invited to join them in a meal of rice, chicken and delicious fish. Such hospitality.

Today I passed 31000km – at the crest of a hill. At the bottom I saw a perfect place to stop to take a picture. I had arrived in Nirvana – Nirvana crematorium.

31000km

31000km

We are back on the main road. It’s not too busy, but less inspiring than the beautiful road of the past days that meandered through the low-lying lands near the coast. Still, the main road let us cover more kilometres as the crow flies.