Tromsø in the winter

Posted: June 25, 2012 in Uncategorized
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Tromsø is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. I went there for the first time last christmas with my family. It was so amazing it motivated me to return in the summer, which I will be doing this summer – to see it in a very different ‘light’.

When we were there, the sun remained below the horizon. There was a short twilight period of about 3 hours where the sun approached the horizon, and the sky was a deep velvet blue. The sky nearest the sun turned pink and orange briefly around 12, heralding a sunrise that never came. The icy mountains as backdrop made a spectacular sight. By 14:00 it was all but black again.

In a few weeks I will passing Tromsø in 24 hour light on my bike. I am looking forward to seeing this beautiful city in the summer sun.

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The logistical challenge: Cycling to Nordkapp, hiking on Svalbard

Posted: June 24, 2012 in Cycling, Hiking
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This summer I will be cycling from Bodø to Nordkapp, and then hiking on Svalbard. This poses a logistical challenge. By documenting all the logistical elements, I hope to ensure that everything is covered.

The challenge:

  • Arrive in Bodø with undamaged bike and all cycling luggage.
  • End in Tromsø with bike and cycling luggage (after having cycled to Nordkapp) ready to fly to Svalbard.
  • Transport bike and cycling luggage back to Holland undamaged.
  • Have backpack and hiking equipment (some not taken on the bike trip) in Svalbard.

Transporting the bike and luggage

Here is a list of what I am taking on my bike trip. I am starting the bike trip in Bodø and ending in Tromsø. The bike will be transported by plane from Amsterdam – Oslo – Bodø, and then Tromsø – Svalbard – Oslo – Amsterdam. In my experience (and also that of my local bike shop), bikes often get damaged when transported by aeroplane. I will pack the  bike in a cardboard box which is used to deliver new bikes to bike shops.

Bike ready for transport

Bike ready for transport

Of course, I will remove the pedals, turn the handlebars to the side, and deflate the tyres. A tip for removing the bike pedals: the left pedal is removed by turning clockwise, the right pedal by turning anticlockwise. 🙂

I have been blessed with very helpful bikeshops in Eindhoven and Tromsø. Rijwielcentrale in Eindhoven gave me the box in the photo for transporting the bike to Bodø. MXTromsø and Intersport Sportshuset Tromsø have both kindly offered to give me a cardboard transport box for the flights from Tromsø back to Holland (via Svalbard).

The box is very big. My good friend Jennifer has offered to come with me in the train to the airport on the 6th of July to help me take my bike and luggage and transport box to Schiphol airport.

To reduce the number of individual pieces of luggage for the flight, I will be transporting the two front bike bags and one of the bike back bags in the check-in luggage of the plane in an Ikea blue bag. The Ikea bag seems quite robust, but I think I will get it reinforced at the local tailor. I will use the other back bike bag as take-on hand luggage.

Ikea bag with bike bags

Ikea bag with bike bags

The Ikea bag closes with the bike bags

The Ikea bag closes with the bike bags

As there are no flights from Amsterdam to Bodø leaving and arriving on a Saturday, I will be staying overnight in Oslo on Friday night before taking an early morning flight to Bodø on Saturday morning. I will be staying in the Radisson Blu Airport hotel which is directly opposite the airport. There are no escalators or stairs between arrivals and the hotel, so the bike can remain in the transport box.

Return trip Nordkapp – Tromsø

Having cycled from Bodø to Nordkapp, I need to return to Tromsø with my bike and luggage to fly to Svalbard for the hike. There is little public transport far north. There is a bus to from Honningsvåg (near Nordkapp on Magerøya island where Nordkapp is situated) to Tromsø via Alta. Much more convenient and comfortable is the Hurtigruten boat which stops at Honningsvåg and lots of other stops on the way to Tromsø. I will be taking the boat, and hoping for nice weather so I can see the fiords from a different perspective from the sea.

For the record, bus 207 leaves Honningsvåg at 06:40 in the morning and arrives in Alta at 10:35. From there there is a 10 minute changeover time in Alta to bus 150 to Tromsø (leaving 10:45). If this changeover is missed, you need to wait a day in Alta for the next bus. I did not investigate this option too extensively once I discovered the boat option. I imagine, however, that it is possible to arrange for the busses to wait in Alta so the bike and bike luggage can be transferred.

Transport of hiking equipment to Svalbard

On Svalbard I will need different equipment to what I need for the bike trip. I will take a backpack and heavy hiking shoes, among other things. I will not be taking these things on my bike trip, and I need to get them to Svalbard for the hike. I am sending my backpack and the equipment that I don’t need for the bike trip to Svalbard where it will be stored until I arrive from Tromsø with my bike. The bike will be stored at Longyearbyen while I hike, and then I will return to Holland with everything.

I will be sending my hiking equipment by insured post (post.nl).

Backpack in City Box

Backpack in City Box

A backpack cannot be sent just as it is, but needs to be in a cardboard box (no larger than 100x50x50 cm). The standard cardboard boxes available at the post-office or at hardware stores (for moving house) are not large enough. My pack fits in  the largest box from City Box. In theory it should also fit in the box I ordered online from www.onlinepartijen.nl. The box arrived today, but seems a bit thinner than the City Box..

Backpack in City Box

Backpack in City Box

Second installment of Auyuittuq National Park hike added

Posted: June 15, 2012 in Hiking
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Check out the second installment of the Auyuittuq National Park hike.

Mt Thor

Mt Thor

Blast from the past: Auyuittuq National Park: Canada

Posted: June 13, 2012 in Hiking
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I just added an entry into the history pages of this blog: my trip in Auyuittuq National Park in northern Canada.

Flowers in Auyuittuq

Flowers in Auyuittuq

Hot and hilly for the Amersfoort marathon

Posted: June 10, 2012 in Running
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It was all pointing towards a record time under 4 hours for me at the Amersfoort marathon. The Saturday before I had run my ‘standard’ long route along the Belgian canals in a record time of 3:22 for 36 km. And I wasn’t even dead like I always am after a marathon. Surely this was going to be the time.

The day before the marathon was cold and wet. A little too cold perhaps. The marathon day was a stark contrast. Quite warm (over 20) and bright sun. Some clouds drifted across the sun occasionally, but we were destined to run in the sun.

Before the start of the Amersfoort marathon

Before the start of the Amersfoort marathon

The 2000 odd runners in the half marathon and full marathon started at the same time in one big block. I would guess 80% were running in the half marathon. Most people were not as crazy as me.

I had no idea how fast I was running. It hardly mattered as I was running with the crowd with little chance to overtake. The km markers were well hidden. I saw my first one at km 4, and then the next at km 7. I was running about the right tempo for a 4 hour marathon, but I knew it was more tiring that it should be. I was not going to be able to keep this up.

We then ran through the animal park and then disappeared into the forest. A revelation: there are hills in the middle of the Netherlands. We went up and up in the bright sun. But then we went down and down for ever: right back to Amersfoort and the finish of the half marathon.

I ran the half marathon in exactly 2 hours and was quite close to stopping there with the 80% of the clever runners. I knew I didn’t have the energy to run under 4 hours. Well, I went on. In the blink of an eye the field thinned out and there was a runner every 50 metres or so. And it was a slog: already by km 22, but really around km 25. I stopped at the drink stands and drank one, two, three beakers of water, and then dragged myself on. And then we went up and up again. I was miles from the finish and could see no way of stopping here. There was no other way back other than running/walking it. I walked a bit, ran a bit. The kilometres crawled along. It was a beautiful sunny forest, but you don’t notice that when you’re absolutely exhausted.

I felt some twinges of cramp around 37 km and was given a beaker of broth with lots of salt by a nice first aid women on the side of the road. There were lots of others around me finding it hard too. Walking a bit, running a bit. I seemed to be keeping pace with a guy all painted up in green, running barefoot. Ouch.

I am crazy. I am mad. Why do I do this to myself? Walk. Jog at a plod. Walk. Man. I have hit the wall this time. Last week I was nowhere near the wall and was whizzing along at km 36. Not today. Even though it was downhill.

I run through the town after km 40. Lots of enthusiastic people on the side. ‘Only a little but further..’ I heard that many many times. Grit the teeth and go on.

My name was announced as I rounded the last turn to the finish line. 4:35:25. A dreadful time. Almost my worst. Nowhere near 4 hours. Still, my first marathon in 3 years, and on a hot sunny day. There will be another chance to crack the 4 hours. Maybe I can do it in Eindhoven in October. Still, you never know until you have passed the finish line.

No free refreshments at the finish line, and I had my money in my back at the changing area. I plodded there, and then plodded home. Now I need to recover.

Cycle trip: what to take

Posted: May 22, 2012 in Cycling
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I went on a 4 day cycle trip through the Netherlands, Belgium, France and England over the ascension day long weekend. One of the goals of the trip was to test out all the equipment and clothing I plan to take for my cycle trip to the North Cape in Norway. I took some notes of equipment that needed to be repaired, and things I need to buy for my trip. Better find out now before I leave for Norway.

Here is a list of what I intend to take to Norway

  • Bike panniers (2 front and 2 back)
  • Plastic waterproof iPhone holder for handlebars
  • iPhone
  • iPhone charger
  • Earphones for iPhone
  • 2 portable batteries (2 x 5000mAh Lenmar PowerPort Wave) for charging the iPhone.
  • Poncho
  • Trekking pants (light, fast dry, zipper to turn them into shorts if the weather is right)
  • Fleece
  • Wind jacket
  • Down jacket
  • 2 Cycling shorts
  • Lycra long running pants (wear over the cycling shorts in cold weather)
  • Cycling gloves (for stopping blisters on the hands)
  • Warm waterproof gloves
  • Buff
  • Cycling tricot (1x short sleeve, 1x long sleeve)
  • Helmet
  • 2 water bottles
  • 4 underpants
  • 3 t-shirts
  • singlet
  • Benie
  • Teva sandals
  • Warm, waterproof, hard soled, light weight hiking shoes (can cycle in them, can be evening shoes, and can do short several hour hikes with them on the cycle trip)
  • Waterproof shoe covers
  • Socks (2x warm wool, 1x cooler)
  • Towel
  • 1 cap
  • 1 mosquito head net
  • 1 pair of sunglasses
  • Small, compactable pack to be used as rucksack for short hikes are errands to the shop etc.
  • Long sleeve inner layer for upper body
  • 1 heavy duty bike lock
  • Bike repair kit (for punctures, replace inner tube, repair broken spoke, oil)
  • 1 bowl
  • 1 plastic cutlery set
  • 1 swiss army knife
  • Tissues
  • Toiletries
  • Toilet paper + alcohol hand wash
  • Ear plugs
  • Sunscreen
  • Lip balm
  • Pen
  • Torch
  • Tent + plastic sheet for under the tent
  • Sleeping bag
  • Thermarest
  • Thermarest repair kit
  • SLR camera (+ extra batteries and charger)
  • Medical kit
  • Needle and thread
  • DEET insect repellant
  • Lighter
  • Maps
  • Food

I haven’t done a long trip like this in many years, and not one in the far north since 1997. Please, give comments and advice on extra things to take!

Ascension Day Long Weekend Bike Trip

Posted: May 21, 2012 in Cycling
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Eindhoven – Dover – Oostende

Hi all. Here is my complete trip on the ascension day long weekend bike trip. It looks more impressive I think with each day’s trip concatenated together.. 🙂

 

Day 4. Dover – Calais – Oostende. 108km

Posted: May 20, 2012 in Belgium, Cycling, England, France
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Dover – Calais – Oostende

The weather had changed completely when I got up this morning. Thick cloud and a gale was blowing damp cold air from the north-east. Like in Calais I did a few circuits of the bitumen harbour passing passport and ticket checks, and lining with the cars. I stayed inside the boat this time. Too chilly outside.

I found the way out from the harbour easily and started my slow slog to the north-east. In the open fields without protection from the wind I travelled at 13-14 km/h. With a few trees for protection I made 15. Villages were a blessing. I made 17-18 km/h. The constant push forward is more wearing than the varied pushes uphill and rolling downhill of the earlier days. Also, going uphill, you know you will be cycling down. I knew the wind would be blowing in my face all day today..

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Also, roads were again an issue. Near Dunkirk everything was almost freeway. I took a detour south and made my way through some much more pleasant villages. It was time for a late lunch at the Belgian border. A wacky brasserie playing a mixture of 80s, schlagers and 60s and frequented by the local elders was my stop for lasagne.

It became clear to me that Oostende will be my final destination and not Vlissingen. The wind, if anything, seemed to get stronger. I was reduced to 11 km/h at times. The wall to wall high rise apartment blocks of almost all of the Belgian coast were a blessing. Near them I made 18 km/h.

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I arrived at Oostende ready for a lazy sit in the train. I feel satisfied having seen some new country out in nature.

Day 3. Heuvelland – Dover. 114km

Posted: May 19, 2012 in Belgium, Cycling, England, France
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Heuvelland -Dover

It didn’t rain overnight and the skies were surprisingly clear when I emerged early from my tent. The birds were already up proclaiming their deafening chorus. It was 5am. I packed up, ate my few remaining snacks (they didn’t have anything much to buy at the camping ground the evening before), and left.

Again, cycling early in the morning is the best time. The air is cold and crisp and there is a magic light. I took the back roads to Loker and the nipped across the border to Bailleau – a very quaint town, and so peaceful so early.

I nourished myself on wares from the boulangerie today at various stops. Lots of naughty pastries. It is France, after all. There was little else. They were very good.. 😉 Anyway, I’m sure the calories are burnt off..

The wind was predominately a head wind and the hills seemed more up than down. I had a slow pace, but it was nice, cool, cycling weather, the sun poking through the clouds from time to time.

Finding a road not impossibly busy with cars and trucks rocketing along is quite a challenge. At times such roads were unavoidable and rather unpleasant. The side roads were all the more rewarding. Narrow, meandering roads, flanked by fields and cows.

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The uphill rolling hills unexpectedly dipped precipitously into the town of Licques. It is a beautiful village at the bottom of a bowl of circling steep hills. What was it doing here? Lovely. Lunch at Licques, and then a short slog until the pass, from which I rocketed down all the way to Calais.

The harbour and all the infrastructure for the ferries is very impressive. After lining up with the cars, I had a restful trip across the channel before admiring the white cliffs on the way in to Dover.

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My plans of doing the cycle trip on the cliff top to Deal didn’t happen. I circled around and around in Dover before slogging my way up and immensely steep road to the castle on the hill. The road was so steep the front wheel almost reared up, nearly flipping the bike. I cycled briefly along the top before chatting with a guy sunning himself on a grassy area at the top. I realised Deal was way too far and steep. In fact, I decided to sleep in a hotel in Dover. Much more convenient than the planned camping ground at Folkestone. A good English roast for dinner and then off to bed. Early boat back to Calais and the up the coast as far as I can get.

Day 2. Waterloo – Heuvelland. 150km

Posted: May 18, 2012 in Belgium, Cycling
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Waterloo – Heuvelland

I woke to the pitter patter of rain on my hotel window. It was grey and wet outside. I went back to sleep. It was 4am.

It had stopped raining by the time I left, and within 2 hours all clouds had evaporated and the sky was clear and blue.

The Vlaanderen long distance bike trip tries to avoid main roads. A good thing. When it gets hilly, though, this means you are lead up and down and up and down. North, south, east, west. Very pretty, green steep valleys. Cute farm houses. Cycling through fields of grain. You feel, though, that you aren’t advancing. Just getting tired- up and down. So, I took short cuts – the main road. You get forward, but the constant rush of traffic is annoying. I took a balance which worked out well.

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I had a tasty lunch in Brakel. The lovely woman serving spoke Dutch, but I didn’t understand a word. She was very friendly though.

I learned of the Flemish Ardennes today. Serious hills with serious slopes. Geraardsbergen was the hilliest. My pace was slow. After Kortrijk the hills ended and I followed a river that was the Belgian French border. The dark clouds made for an imposing backdrop.

I am at a busy camping ground in Heuvelland, near the French border. A simple dinner and I am full. Calais and England tomorrow.

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