Archive for the ‘Timor Leste’ Category


The island has come to an end and the road has come to an end. It feels like the end of the earth. We’re at the end of a bumpy dirt road, on the edge of a high grassy plain surrounded by rocky mountains reaching up to the heavens. Heavy black clouds hang low over the peaks ahead, and the sun behind casts long evening shadows in front of us. There is tranquillity in the air. Here time stands still, and we have come to rest.

Towards the dark clouds

Towards the dark clouds

This island is incredible. Every day – every few hours – the landscape changes. We started the day cycling on a peaceful road bumping along the coast, grassy plains to the left and right. Cows and goat graze, watching as we pass, and water buffalo wallow in the muddy pools.

Coastal road

Coastal road

Then it was time for lunch – 30 fried bananas and a watermelon. A bus stopped – a typical one for East Timor. The busses are always colourfully decorated – usually with paintings of young, attractive women or of Jesus Christ. This one was with young, attractive women.

Colourful bus

Colourful bus

Colourful bus

Colourful bus

Then the road climbed through forest to a high plain with endless grassland and cows, ending in a lake in the distance. The road was very bumpy, and the standard Timor headwind kept our speed down, but our spirits were high as we breathed in the beauty of this remote part of the earth.

The road to the end of the island

The road to the end of the island

The lake

The lake

Tomorrow we will descend to the beach at the end of Timor island, and visit Jaco island – and wave in the direction of Darwin… Australia!


Someone has transported me to Australia. The countryside has suddenly changed to the dry rolling hills north of Adelaide covered in dry grass and dotted with trees. The south side of Timor is wet, and the north – where I am – is dry. Sharing the same poor soil as Australia, I’ve left the Indonesian tropical landscape for something more familiar. I feel close to Australia now, and I am happy.

Dry

Dry

Also it is hot, but not infinitely humid. I can cope with this heat. We climbed and dropped following the coast, sometimes in the bright, hot sun, but it was not such a sweaty affair. We stopped for a swim in the clear blue water, and I passed 36000km from Eindhoven.

36000km

36000km

Clement is homesick, thinking of France all the time. I feel I am getting closer and closer to Australia. In a few days I will be on Jaco Island – the closest point I will get to Australia before leaving Timor (hopefully by boat).

The dry landscape is uninhabited. Long stretches without people – something we are not used to. Every now and then the countryside bursts into life with greenery and expanses of rice paddies. There is life, but it is concentrated around the rivers. We stopped early tonight when we passed by a couple of white women in a small village (after a long stretch of nothing). They were from Australia, working for the church and the community as nurses. We got talking, and now find ourselves in something quite close to a monastery. Some friars prepared beds of us, and as I write this, the monks are singing outside my window.

Postscript: Sister Clara had her birthday today. Clement and I sat opposite her at the long table under the bright fluorescent light as we shared a meal with the whole community. It was a meal with lots of singing and clapping. Two sisters, two friars, Bernadette – our nurse friend – and a group of students all sang along. And then the cake appeared, and the champagne. Sister Clara, and everyone, are a very happy, smily bunch, and passionate about what they do. Good on them! What an opportunity to experience such a different life in this remote community on this remote island! There’s a good vibe when good people are doing good work.

Sister Clara cuts the cake

Sister Clara cuts the cake


‘How about this race here?’ I asked, pointing to the trophy on the desk. ‘The Darwin to Dili yacht rally? When is that?’
Cargo boats don’t allow passengers to Australia. I saw the trophy on the desk in the hotel reception and asked about the rally – it appeared it might be just great for us.
‘They will be arriving around the 11th of July, some returning to Darwin a few days later.’
We spent the day phoning around, making plans, and then leaving the expensive Dili to a beautiful village on the coast.

The road out of Dili

The road out of Dili

We left our lovely friends in the morning, and after circuiting around Dili a few times – a rather uninspiring town – we cycling along an amazing coastal road in the soft evening light. Our goal is the furthest point east on Timor island, and the closest place to Australia. Then we’ll return to Dili to see what the universe may provide for us.

Our friends in Dili

Our friends in Dili

The road out of Dili

The road out of Dili

The road out of Dili

The road out of Dili


The kids ran out of the staff area screaming ‘PORTUGAL!’
I poked my nose in after the stampede was over to discover Portugal had beaten Poland in the Euro football. Portugal flags were flying today. Imagine if they were to win..

Our friends at the school

Our friends at the school

The kids started in the morning singing in the church service in the next building. It was a lovely sound – the kids could actually sing well which was not a prerequisite for the call to prayer at the mosques in Indonesia. The whole atmosphere was harmonious and peaceful – a collection of airy buildings around a central square of dry earth in this remote island. I felt transported back to yesteryear in the time of the missionaries. Christianity was central to everything in this school, and a tranquil happiness pervaded. We were welcomed by the 5 priests/teachers who were happy to share their experiences with us. Breakfast was freshly baked bread with jam – a delicacy I have not had for a long time.
We also met an elderly gentleman from southern Germany – a carpenter who has been travelling the world to where his church sent him, building schools, houses, churches and other things. He has taught many people so they can take their skills and use them elsewhere. He has had quite a life in the most forgotten places on the planet.

Today the road hugged the coast, sometimes over flat plains, and a long stretch high above the sea, climbing and dropping along the mountainous coast. We stopped just before Dili and have been welcomed by a lovely family.

The coastal road to Dili

The coastal road to Dili

The coastal road to Dili

The coastal road to Dili


‘We have wine.’
The priest opened up the cabinet and moved the camoflage to the side.
‘God has brought us together tonight to share food, wine and each other’s company.’
Out came a big cask of wine from Portugal. Welcome to Timor Leste.

From the coastal road

From the coastal road

Today was an easy day – a non-steep road, mostly good, down to the coast. We had a long internet stop to catch up with our friends and family, and an easy crossing (visa free) into country number 33 – Timor Leste.

We are sleeping in a catholic school on the beach, after being welcomed in by the head-priest. Yes, there are crocodiles here too – so no swimming.. ☺