Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category


Yak butter. The valley smells of yak butter. From every village, from every temple. I pass monks entering the temples – the yak-butter centres. Monks pass me buzzing along on their motor scooters while looking at their phone. I watch the monks circle around the temple perched on the top of the hill in Xinlong. Yak butter.

The cat looks on

The cat looks on

I left early this morning, with the thought of cycling the whole valley to the base of the massive pass in one day – 150km. The road was good, but up and down and up and down – rising above the river, only to drop down at the next corner. The headwind slowed things down, so I accepted it. I’ll take this valley in two days as originally planned.

Village

Village

The monk and his soul mate

The monk and his soul mate

Xinlong

Xinlong

Temple in Xinlong

Temple in Xinlong

Day 219. 107km. Luhou – Shadui

Posted: December 17, 2015 in China, Cycling
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‘Where are you going?’ It was the police in the village I wanted to sleep. There was no room for travellers, and the nearest hotel was back where I had come from. I feared the worst, but the police helped me find a place to stay – in an empty room in the local school. Thank you police!

The weather border

The weather border

Today was about scaling the last pass before Ganzi. I did it in beautiful weather conditions – every minute it changed from bright sun to the darkest clouds. Oh, and with a constant headwind.

The high pass

The high pass

At the top of the pass

At the top of the pass

At the pass

At the pass

The weather border

The weather border

I continued down the road southwards in the evening to get some kilometres done in the evening light. In my haste, I missed passing 19000km. No photos of that yet.. Tomorrow down the river valley that has been recommended to me by different people.

Day 218. 77km. Wengda – Luhuo

Posted: December 16, 2015 in China, Cycling
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I cycled on the weather border. On one side was bright sun. On the other were the darkest of clouds. I cycled on the roadworks border. Behind me hell on earth. In front of me (mostly) prestine new road. And I cycled over a 4300m pass – my first 4000+ pass since Tajikistan.

The sunny mountains

The sunny mountains

At the top of the pass, I must have hit the true weather border. It started to rain. The wind changed direction. It looked threatening. But today I stayed in the sunny weather. This evening in Luhou I met 5 cyclists who cycled today on the dark side.. They got wet.

Looking towards the dark

Looking towards the dark

The high bridge

The high bridge


I have finished cycling for 2015 and my trusty bike is getting a service – new rims, and various odds and ends are being fixed. In Bangkok, other than eating, I have been working on my latest video, which is now ready for viewing. 🙂 I hope you like it!

Day 217. 85km. Puxi – Wengda

Posted: December 15, 2015 in China, Cycling
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Exhausted. These roadworks are dreadful and consume all my conscience. 50km of relentless mudbaths, rock gardens, pools and trucks. No tranquillity. Any views obscured by mountains of rocks to be used in road construction. Oh. And I have diahorrea.

Temple in the evening

Temple in the evening

I cycled with Andy and Summer today. We enjoyed the mud together. Here are some photos of our ordeals.

Yuck!

Yuck!

Yuck!

Yuck!


What a day. Sun. Rain. Torrential rain with thunderstorm. Roadworks on a rocky, muddy dreadful road. Flat tyre on the first 500m of bad road. Welcoming by lovely Tibetan family. Tyre fixed in dry shed, followed by lunch with the family – all 3 generations. Meeting 2 other cyclists. Only another 40km of dreadful road to go.

The awful road

The awful road

A question to the road-building experts out there. It seems that when the Chinese do a road upgrade, they take the 100km of road to be upgraded, and dig up all of the existing bitumen, leaving a muddy rocky mess. They then work on rock barriers on the side of the road, on bridges and other things, while the road remains almost impassable. Why do they do this, and why do they destroy all 100km of old road in one go? I am sure there is a good engineering explanation. Just asking..

The start of the 100km of roadworks

The start of the 100km of roadworks

If it wasn’t for the roadworks and the rain, I would have not met such a wonderful family. Matthew, the drowned rat, knocked on their gate and they welcomed me in with such warmth. I was ushered to the shed, and a heater was brought to my side. I was then invited to lunch as it started to bucket down outside.

The lovely family

The lovely family

Grandpa

Grandpa

When I left my friends after lunch, the sun was out and it was positively warm. The scenery was stunning. I just had to make sure to stop regularly to look at it. While cycling, all my concentration was taken in keeping the bike in one piece.

The valley in the sun

The valley in the sun

The valley in the sun

The valley in the sun

45km of roadworks and a thunderstorm later, I find myself in a lovely little room with 2 other cyclists that have made their way along the same road. We will be cycling onwards together tomorrow.

My new cycling friends Summer and Andy

My new cycling friends Summer and Andy


It’s weird when you connect the dots. Air travel creates a set of places you have been, disjoint from each-other. Bangkok – my favourite Asian city – was always a short stop after a long-haul flight. Bangkok is no longer separated. It is connected to Eindhoven through my 24326km journey here. The whole world is connected, and I am happy to live on it!

Dripping in sweat, I arrive in my lovely apartment in Bangkok

Dripping in sweat, I arrive in my lovely apartment in Bangkok

I saw the sea for the first time since Greece – at Bangpoo Recreation.

Bangpoo Recreation

Bangpoo Recreation

Bangpoo Recreation

Bangpoo Recreation

I sit here in my lovely air-conditioned room in the middle of this enormous mega-city feeling pretty proud of myself. I have finished cycling for 2015. I’ll spend the rest of the year here and with a friend in Assam, India.
What a year 2015 has been. In this year, I have studied Chinese in Taiwan, becoming moderately fluent while in China. I have cycled through rain, snow, muddy roadworks, blistering sun and hurricane winds. I have cycled through deserts, high altitude plateaus and tropical rainforests. I have had heatstroke, altitude sickness and lots of diahorrea. But, most importantly, I have met the most beautiful people. The people I share this world with – in far-away places people are just like at home. Caring, loving people – they laugh, they play, they work, they live.

With this I sign off for 2015. There will still be daily (3 month delayed) posts of my trip through China. Have a great new year, and I’ll see you in 2016!

My route up to Bangkok

My route up to Bangkok

The approach into Bangkok

The approach into Bangkok

P.S. For those looking for a good cycle route into Bangkok, I can recommend the one I took. Approaching from the south is a good idea. The roads were mostly (relatively) small, with not too much traffic. Of course, it is all relative – given that you are approaching Bangkok, the roads were quite quiet.. 🙂 The route can be downloaded from Google maps.


I dropped 1000m today to a warm, sunny place. Kids were swimming in the river. People were drinking beer on terraces on the river shore in the town. Today I just felt tired. My friend the headwind was back, and this evening I was informed there’s 100km of roadworks ahead. Tired.

Tibetan village

Tibetan village

I need to cycle 100km each day to get to Shangri La in time to extend my Chinese visa. There are other solutions, but, it would be good to get there in time by bike. 100km is fine in usual conditions. The Tibetan Plateau is good at throwing up non-normal conditions. This is all making me tired.

The valley was beautiful. Here are some photos.

Tibetan tourist village

Tibetan tourist village

The river

The river

Tibetan bridge

Tibetan bridge


The world is a different place in the sun. The yurt filled valley was beautiful, bordered by low rolling hills, a wide meandering river in its centre. Then, over a small pass, and I find myself cycling down through a green, forested valley, sun and wind at my back.

The plains in the sun

The plains in the sun

It was many hours on the bike, trying to get through some kilometres (in an attempt to get to Shangri La to extend my visa). Beautiful views. Here are some photos.

Waiting for the dumplings

Waiting for the dumplings

The high plains

The high plains

The watershed

The watershed

The watershed

The watershed

The river going down

The river going down


Bernadette and I slept in today, and then talked and talked and talked. We only started cycling around 11 (rather than the usual 6). Consequently only a few kilometres were done today through the plantations of various crops.

Me and Bernadette

Me and Bernadette

It was quite a pleasant road, although at the end, it was clearly getting busy – approaching the mega-city of Bangkok.

Lovely view over the plantations

Lovely view over the plantations

I feel rather silly, but, this crop is being grown everywhere in Laos, Cambodia and now in Thailand. Does anyone know what it is?

What is this plant?

What is this plant?

Tomorrow and early rise, and into the Bangkok traffic-jam.

Me and Bernadette

Me and Bernadette