Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category


The 10 year-old kid lit another cigarette, his siblings were lying next to him on the mats watching the never-ending television. Outside, visible through the open wall the teenagers were playing pool. It was midnight.
‘Shall we bring the bikes in yet?’ I ask from my corner of the mat, Clement next to me with a blanket over his eyes.
‘Another three hours.’
Last night was a haze of thriller television music, snooker, laughing and.. haze. And this is how the whole family lives – every night.

Our bedroom

Our bedroom

Today I left Clement not knowing if we would meet up again before Jakarta. He needed a new hub and was taking a lift to the next town 65km away. All went perfectly. They had a hub, and it was all fitted just before I arrived by bike. Before that, I traversed some very hilly and beautiful terrain, past mountains and beautiful beaches.

Mountain view

Mountain view

Beach

Beach

Beach

Beach

I like our camping place tonight. My hammock is slung between two palm trees, looking out over the beach, the waves crashing on the shore. And the best thing. We are here alone. All this ‘Hello Mister’ attention has been a bit much. And there is no light above our heads to keep us awake. Bliss.


Today we were going to eat the kilometres. Today Clement’s back wheel caused more problems which saw us spend 3 hours in a little bike workshop, and, 20km later, limp uphill to a little shop to comtemplate further steps.

Mechanic

Mechanic

The eating of kilometres never really got started. We stopped after 10km to eat and tighten Clement’s back wheel that was wobbling. Then, leaving the village, the problem got worse. A few new inner-hub parts and 3 hours later, we left, only to experience the problems return when the road started climbing what seemed like a cliffface. Tomorrow our paths will part for now. Clement will hitch a ride to the next big town, and possibly 400km to the next big city. I’ll keep my fingers crossed for him.


We stood there in the sun, next to the little hut on the beach, munching our 5th kilogram of duku (a tropical fruit) when there was cry. People were running for cover. Just 10 metres away it was pouring with rain. I wheeled my bike under cover, and then it started. The rain boundary was abrupt, and now it was over us – it was raining cats and dogs.

Beach

Beach

We visited our host, Mr. Black’s school in the town of Manna. My goodness, the kids were excited. One asked if they could take a selfie. When we said yes, they all screamed and stormed to the front in a tsunami of smart phones. I can’t overstress the volume of the initial burst of screaming. It blew me away. We are not super stars, but in the eyes of these kids we were.

The kids

The kids

We find ourselves tonight in a military base camping on the floor. It is very peaceful and relaxing after a hot day cycling, eating, swimming and surfing.


‘What do the people do in your village,’ Ad asked Clement. Clement lived in a little village in France near the Swiss border.
‘Do the peasants around the village have enough to eat?’
‘Things are so much better here in Indonesia since the palm oil plantations. People have jobs, and people have enough to eat. The plantations are good!’

Cycling in the palm plantations

Cycling in the palm plantations

We are often asked how much we earn and how much the bikes are worth. The amounts seem ridiculous here. I now say my bike is one tenth of the true price, and I am still met with comments of how expensive it is. Prices are different in the west, and so is life in general. Today we were invited to stay with the English teacher of the local school. His English was excellent, and we could have in-depth conversations, which led to interesting questions and interesting perspectives. For westerners, of course everyone in the village has enough to eat. Also, for westeners, palm plantations are evil – for the environment and concentration of wealth amongst the wealthy. The forests of Europe were cut down many years ago, so the evil from that has passed.

Today we passed the stretch of road for fruit sellers. Everyone was selling exactly the same fruit. Then, ten kilometres down the road, we passed the stretch of road of people selling four different kinds of fried food – and nothing else. No fruit sellers here. This seems quite a common thing. A few days ago we passed stretches of road with people selling big fluffy toys. A mixture of sellers with varying wares seems quite unheard-of here.

Fried food sellers

Fried food sellers

While at the stretch for fried food sellers, Clement realised that someone had stolen almost a million rupiah from his wallet (about 50 euros). We spent a long time thinking back to when it could have happened. After all this thought, we were none-the-wiser. Such an unexpected and atypical thing for Indonesia.

After an initial stretch this morning along a soft sandy path through the palm plantations, we returned to the road on the edge of the mountains that twisted and turned, constantly rising and falling. We contemplated the different kinds of road: mountain roads are very steep, but have amazing views, and are cooler, being at higher altitude. Roads back from the coast are hot and constantly up and down, but have a good road surface. Roads along the coast are straight and flat, but have a crap road surface. Then, if a road is flat, straight and has a good road surface, there is lots of traffic. A mixture of roads is the key!


We left the main drag in search of the little white road on the paper map. The road that isn’t on Google Maps, but, luckily does exist. It’s a bumpy affair through the palm plantations well off the beaten track. And, here we find ourselves, in a little village staying with our flamboyant host.

In the palm plantation

In the palm plantation

Today, being less steep, meant there was more time for talking, which we did in abundance. At different places with views over the sea we stopped and talked and ate. All good past-times for cyclists. Sleeping is another good past-time for cyclists, and that is what I’m going to do now..


Clement likes challenges, and today he gave me one that he knew would be hard – as a challenge should be. Cycle 1000km without a map, without GPS and without tracking my route. This challenge reached deep into my being. I can’t do that. Why not? I don’t know.

View from our lunch spot at the 28000km mark.

View from our lunch spot at the 28000km mark.

Today was exhausting. 100km of up and down and up and down, through the palm plantations and the forest, passing near the sea, but only touching it once. That one time we hit the sea was exactly when I passed 28000km.

28000km swim

28000km swim

The Indian Ocean

The Indian Ocean

We stopped in a village at the end of the day, and were immediately invited in to stay. The whole village descended on our place, and we had about 50 people surrounding us in an orgy of selfies. The level of excitement was incredible. I don’t think the kids will sleep for a week!


‘Have you got some of that Viagra?’ Clement asked.
I looked at him in disbelief.
‘You know, that Viagra you used the other day.’
Mmm.
‘That jelly to help with my shorts rubbing.’
‘Aaaah. Vaseline.’
Viagra is not part of my assortment of medications on this trip. ☺

The Indian Ocean

The Indian Ocean

Again, we were fed like kings this morning by our lovely hosts – all ready for the kilometre eating planned for today. Today saw us cycle along the coast, and through the palm plantations in a hilly, undulating landscape. We ended up sleeping in the police station.


Indonesian language lesson – the numbers. Exercise number one: count the number of ‘Hello mister’ in 30 minutes. Answer: 62 ‘Hello mister’ in 30 minutes. Also 34 ‘Hello mister’ in 17 minutes before Clement got a flat tyre. Exercise number two – people counting: I counted 27 people watching Clement fixing the tyre – all in Indonesian!

Some spectators

Some spectators

Today we descended on a bumpy road through the dense forest to the sound of tropical birds hooting and monkeys screaming. It was beautiful and so peaceful.

Rainforest

Rainforest

Rainforest

Rainforest

Our quest of reaching 100km each day to make it to Jakarta in time will be difficult. In the mountains we had constant steep roads. On the eastern plains we had heat. Today we had a torrential downpour for a few hours, which I think is quite normal on the west coast.

Shower

Shower

Our strategy from now on is to cycle when it’s dry, only stopping for water and thrusting some food down our throats with great haste. We will cycle until the torrential downpour actually starts (not just when the sky turns black – we may still be able to cycle another 15 minutes) and stop at the next restaurant (which is invariably within 500 metres). Our days will consist of an early start with a two hour torrential downpour break sometime in the afternoon. The elements will dictate our day – the ultimate in going with the flow.

We stopped at a school today to camp, and were invited in by the headmaster to eat and stay at his house. Again, such lovely people!


Sumatra keeps surprising. We left our camp in the coffee plantation and climbed through the forest, bathed in sun, with the monkeys hooting all around, and the beautiful volcano imposing in the heavens. Then we passed onto a high plateau with tea plantations as far as the eye could see. The day’s end saw us ascend into the mountains again in the drizzle.

The road upwards

The road upwards

This ride in Sumatra is amazing. The views are stunning, the food is great, and the ‘Hello Mister’ frequency is very high. Selfie shots abound, and gaggles of giggling girls pull over, parking their motorscooters around us and take turns in taking selfies. I never know the answer to ‘where you go?’. The answer is always ‘over there.’

Tomorrow it’s down to the heat on the coast. Hopefully it is a little less steep there, and we can break the 100km again.

Towards the volcano

Towards the volcano

The beautiful mountains

The beautiful mountains

The volcano

The volcano

Volcano

Volcano


The valley was beautiful, downhill, as Clement and I stood on the back of a pick-up truck, transporting my bike and Clement’s sick bike to the next bike shop. Once on the bike again, today, I lacked energy. The endless ups and downs (several hundred metre climbs and drops) were not inspiring me today, even though the landscape was beautiful. I guess I can’t be bursting with energy every day.

Clement on the back of the truck

Clement on the back of the truck

Beautiful river

Beautiful river

Tea plantation

Tea plantation

We find ourselves tonight in a half built house surrounded by coffee plants, and a few papaya trees. The crickets are out in force, which brings me back to camping in Australia in my youth. I’m in the same hemisphere as that youth now!