South of the Creuse River, the hills get bigger, they said. They did. They also got more familiar, those hills, and I got more emotional. I am here again, and by bike – I laughed with joy. My arrival at La Jonchère was marked with thunder and lightning.
In 1988-89 I spent 3 months here as an exchange student, staying with the Cueille family in the little village of La Jonchère – an hour’s drive north-east of Limoges. I loved that time – my first taste of Europe – the languages, the culture, the people. Its because of that time that I am back here now, and have now lived half my life here. La Jonchère, Limoges and France have a special place in my heart.
In the last week when I was here in 1989, I rented a video camera, and trekked around La Jonchère and the school in Limoges. The video has now aged, as have I, but the village looks the same.
La Jonchère in 1989
La Jonchère in 2014
Rue de l’Hermont 1989
Rue de l’Hermont 2014
I cycled today through the steadily growing hills along the border – the border of the weather. To my right were the blue skies I have come to expect. To the left were clouds, some dark. I was secretly hoping that the sun would hide behind the clouds, making the longer ascents less sweaty affairs. The names of the villages became more familiar, and some places I recognised. I knew I was near when I recognised places from the walks I used to do from La Jonchère. I arrived in the main village square at La Jonchère as the first drops of rain started falling. Then it started. A torrential downpour. I ran under the eves of a house opposite the church. The rain got heavier, there were rolls of thunder, and I watched the rain, eating lunch, in front of the church.
I am a bit earlier than expected, and my host family aren’t available today. I had planned to cycle into Limoges, and then back, to arrive at their house early tomorrow. Well, the rain cleared briefly, but started again, and this time I got drenched. It was still warm, though, so it was refreshing, and it cleaned my bike. I checked into a hotel in a nearby village, and, looking at the teeming rain, lost my enthusiasm of cycling 20km to Limoges, and 20km back that evening. Rather an afternoon nap, and then a nice dinner. (Gourmand..)
Moi. 1989
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[…] Day 5. 95km. Luzeret-Ambazac: South of the Creuse River, the hills get bigger, they said. They did. They also got more familiar, those hills, and I got more emotional. I am here again, and by bike – I laughed with joy. My arrival at La Jonchère was marked with thunder and lightning. […]