arctic-cycler.com

I could have been cycling in Australia. Desolate plains – the mid north in South Australia. Then with trees – somewhere in New South Wales.
What was a sunny and warm day became exciting as the black clouds drew in.

Day 51. 113km. Vardø – Vestre Jakobselv. Map and gpx.

The road and the landscape was very different today. The edges to the high, barren plains were not looming over the road. Instead the land was flat, edging into the sea. At first the vegetation was scrubby and the road was straight. It even shimmered a bit in the distance – a sign that it was even quite warm – adding to the Australian feel.

The road did not feel like it was at the end of the earth. Cabins were dotted along its entire length. I wanted tundra plains. I wanted arctic lakes. I wanted no people. I took a dirt side road at Komagvær. On the map it led to a river. In reality it did this, but passing houses the whole time. The road didn’t climb much. The landscape stayed flat as I rattled along the awful road. Fishermen passed continuously in their 4x4s. When I reached the river, it was difficult to reach with the marshy, boggy banks. I had lunch and returned to the main road.

I stopped for a swim. Yes. I went for a swim in the Arctic Sea (well, the Varanger Fjord to be precise).

When I returned to the bike, the most amazing clouds had materialized. It was spectacular cycling into them. My head was focused above as I watched the heavens. Patches of light and patches of the darkest dark. Patches of rain and patches where beams of sun broke through. Then roars of thunder and flickering in the heavens.

Then the clouds evaporated. The sun shone on beautiful Ekkerøy.

The dark clouds were quick to return. They formed and vanished in the blink of an eye. One moment it is hot. The next there is a chill in the air, and a shiver runs up my spine.
I cycled straight through Vadsø. It was bigger than Vardø, but not pretty, and everything was closed. The next camping ground was at Vestre Jakobselv. That’s where I am. I have a little cabin. Protection against the lightning, and easier to charge all my devices. After 2 days of ‘wild camping’, they need a charge. 🙂

I have one week left. I am leaving on Sunday from Kirkenes. I could cycle there in 2 days if I wanted to. I’ll have to think about where to go.. The Russian border at Grense Jakobselv is one of the possibilities.