Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


‘What do the people do in your village,’ Ad asked Clement. Clement lived in a little village in France near the Swiss border.
‘Do the peasants around the village have enough to eat?’
‘Things are so much better here in Indonesia since the palm oil plantations. People have jobs, and people have enough to eat. The plantations are good!’

Cycling in the palm plantations

Cycling in the palm plantations

We are often asked how much we earn and how much the bikes are worth. The amounts seem ridiculous here. I now say my bike is one tenth of the true price, and I am still met with comments of how expensive it is. Prices are different in the west, and so is life in general. Today we were invited to stay with the English teacher of the local school. His English was excellent, and we could have in-depth conversations, which led to interesting questions and interesting perspectives. For westerners, of course everyone in the village has enough to eat. Also, for westeners, palm plantations are evil – for the environment and concentration of wealth amongst the wealthy. The forests of Europe were cut down many years ago, so the evil from that has passed.

Today we passed the stretch of road for fruit sellers. Everyone was selling exactly the same fruit. Then, ten kilometres down the road, we passed the stretch of road of people selling four different kinds of fried food – and nothing else. No fruit sellers here. This seems quite a common thing. A few days ago we passed stretches of road with people selling big fluffy toys. A mixture of sellers with varying wares seems quite unheard-of here.

Fried food sellers

Fried food sellers

While at the stretch for fried food sellers, Clement realised that someone had stolen almost a million rupiah from his wallet (about 50 euros). We spent a long time thinking back to when it could have happened. After all this thought, we were none-the-wiser. Such an unexpected and atypical thing for Indonesia.

After an initial stretch this morning along a soft sandy path through the palm plantations, we returned to the road on the edge of the mountains that twisted and turned, constantly rising and falling. We contemplated the different kinds of road: mountain roads are very steep, but have amazing views, and are cooler, being at higher altitude. Roads back from the coast are hot and constantly up and down, but have a good road surface. Roads along the coast are straight and flat, but have a crap road surface. Then, if a road is flat, straight and has a good road surface, there is lots of traffic. A mixture of roads is the key!


We left the main drag in search of the little white road on the paper map. The road that isn’t on Google Maps, but, luckily does exist. It’s a bumpy affair through the palm plantations well off the beaten track. And, here we find ourselves, in a little village staying with our flamboyant host.

In the palm plantation

In the palm plantation

Today, being less steep, meant there was more time for talking, which we did in abundance. At different places with views over the sea we stopped and talked and ate. All good past-times for cyclists. Sleeping is another good past-time for cyclists, and that is what I’m going to do now..


Clement likes challenges, and today he gave me one that he knew would be hard – as a challenge should be. Cycle 1000km without a map, without GPS and without tracking my route. This challenge reached deep into my being. I can’t do that. Why not? I don’t know.

View from our lunch spot at the 28000km mark.

View from our lunch spot at the 28000km mark.

Today was exhausting. 100km of up and down and up and down, through the palm plantations and the forest, passing near the sea, but only touching it once. That one time we hit the sea was exactly when I passed 28000km.

28000km swim

28000km swim

The Indian Ocean

The Indian Ocean

We stopped in a village at the end of the day, and were immediately invited in to stay. The whole village descended on our place, and we had about 50 people surrounding us in an orgy of selfies. The level of excitement was incredible. I don’t think the kids will sleep for a week!


‘Have you got some of that Viagra?’ Clement asked.
I looked at him in disbelief.
‘You know, that Viagra you used the other day.’
Mmm.
‘That jelly to help with my shorts rubbing.’
‘Aaaah. Vaseline.’
Viagra is not part of my assortment of medications on this trip. ☺

The Indian Ocean

The Indian Ocean

Again, we were fed like kings this morning by our lovely hosts – all ready for the kilometre eating planned for today. Today saw us cycle along the coast, and through the palm plantations in a hilly, undulating landscape. We ended up sleeping in the police station.


Indonesian language lesson – the numbers. Exercise number one: count the number of ‘Hello mister’ in 30 minutes. Answer: 62 ‘Hello mister’ in 30 minutes. Also 34 ‘Hello mister’ in 17 minutes before Clement got a flat tyre. Exercise number two – people counting: I counted 27 people watching Clement fixing the tyre – all in Indonesian!

Some spectators

Some spectators

Today we descended on a bumpy road through the dense forest to the sound of tropical birds hooting and monkeys screaming. It was beautiful and so peaceful.

Rainforest

Rainforest

Rainforest

Rainforest

Our quest of reaching 100km each day to make it to Jakarta in time will be difficult. In the mountains we had constant steep roads. On the eastern plains we had heat. Today we had a torrential downpour for a few hours, which I think is quite normal on the west coast.

Shower

Shower

Our strategy from now on is to cycle when it’s dry, only stopping for water and thrusting some food down our throats with great haste. We will cycle until the torrential downpour actually starts (not just when the sky turns black – we may still be able to cycle another 15 minutes) and stop at the next restaurant (which is invariably within 500 metres). Our days will consist of an early start with a two hour torrential downpour break sometime in the afternoon. The elements will dictate our day – the ultimate in going with the flow.

We stopped at a school today to camp, and were invited in by the headmaster to eat and stay at his house. Again, such lovely people!


Sumatra keeps surprising. We left our camp in the coffee plantation and climbed through the forest, bathed in sun, with the monkeys hooting all around, and the beautiful volcano imposing in the heavens. Then we passed onto a high plateau with tea plantations as far as the eye could see. The day’s end saw us ascend into the mountains again in the drizzle.

The road upwards

The road upwards

This ride in Sumatra is amazing. The views are stunning, the food is great, and the ‘Hello Mister’ frequency is very high. Selfie shots abound, and gaggles of giggling girls pull over, parking their motorscooters around us and take turns in taking selfies. I never know the answer to ‘where you go?’. The answer is always ‘over there.’

Tomorrow it’s down to the heat on the coast. Hopefully it is a little less steep there, and we can break the 100km again.

Towards the volcano

Towards the volcano

The beautiful mountains

The beautiful mountains

The volcano

The volcano

Volcano

Volcano


The valley was beautiful, downhill, as Clement and I stood on the back of a pick-up truck, transporting my bike and Clement’s sick bike to the next bike shop. Once on the bike again, today, I lacked energy. The endless ups and downs (several hundred metre climbs and drops) were not inspiring me today, even though the landscape was beautiful. I guess I can’t be bursting with energy every day.

Clement on the back of the truck

Clement on the back of the truck

Beautiful river

Beautiful river

Tea plantation

Tea plantation

We find ourselves tonight in a half built house surrounded by coffee plants, and a few papaya trees. The crickets are out in force, which brings me back to camping in Australia in my youth. I’m in the same hemisphere as that youth now!


I counted fifteen people gathered around us in the little pergoda on the side of the road. Clement’s bike was inverted and we were looking at his wheel. A bicycle expert with teeth pointing in all directions was the first to arrive, and after tapping my bike and feeling the tyres, he started working on Clement’s bike.

Our bike repair place

Our bike repair place

Three washers were added to the back axle to compensate for a bolt ground smooth by some, as yet to be discovered problem. The gears were then readjusted to compensate for the washers. All explanations during the repairs were done by the waving of arms and pointing. Thank-you, kind gentleman, for helping where Clement’s and my technical skills were inadequate.
We fear, however, the problem will return. Clement needs a new axle, maybe a new hub, and a new gear cable that is now frayed.

We woke this morning to hear the pouring rain, and then went back to sleep. One’s desire to cycle diminishes when one contemplates getting that wet. Also, Clement’s panniers are not very waterproof anymore, apparently. When we finally woke up, we were offered another incredible breakfast, including a self picked cocoa fruit from the tree just outside the door.

My first cocoa fruit

My first cocoa fruit

By ten we were on the road, cycling at snail pace up an incredibly steep, unrelenting road. We were cycling up the side of a volcano, we discovered later, when we spotted the volcano evacuation signs.

Volcano evacuation

Volcano evacuation

At the top was a beautiful high altitude volcanic lake with an amazingly steep road climbing and falling through fields of temperate weather vegetables, above the lake and below the volcano.

High lake

High lake

High lake

High lake

It was steep

It was steep

We are camping at a bus food stop about a kilometre from the fateful pergoda.


‘Don’t shit on the fish!’
The young man raced out of the house in the fading light of the evening. Clement was going, as instructed, to the place where we had a shower scooping water out of the stream that ran next to the road. Directly downstream was a little fish-pond containing some large specimens of orange fish swimming peacefully. The young man thought Clement only wanted a piss.
‘Don’t shit on the fish!’
Little did we know that the stream on the left of the road was for shitting, and the stream on the right is for showering (or urinating). We will know for next time.

The shower

The shower

That happened in the evening. This morning our new friends made a fantastic breakfast for us. We squatted down, fascinated in the kitchen, watching chillies being ground, dough being kneeded, and tempeh being fried. It was all using local ingredients. Just outside the kitchen, our friend pointed to a durian tree, a coconut tree, cocoa, mangos,.. The list was endless. And the rice was from the local paddies. Fantastic!

The grinding of chillies

The grinding of chillies

Then we were invited to the local school, adorned with many wise sayings which don’t translate well into English.

Lost in translation

Lost in translation

The teacher and kids welcomed us into their class and asked us questions on our trip.
Their eyes were shining, hearing about a world out there – a world that they will inherit. Before leaving, we were farewelled in chorus from the school gate.

The school kids

The school kids

School kids

School kids

Today was a day of climbing and cruising back downhill. These valleys are amazing – little areas with rice paddies, surrounded by little hills, dotted with palm trees.

Rice paddies

Rice paddies

Looking down

Looking down

The day finished with the road deciding to climb almost vertically upward. It’s really cool – pushing my body, the sweat pouring off, crawling up a road that gets steeper after every turn – with an amazing backdrop. The endorphins flow and I am happy.

We asked if we could camp in the school grounds in a small village. That was OK, but maybe first we would like to have a drink at the neighbour’s, and have a shower in the roadside stream with a view out over the fish. We were then invited for dinner, and then to sleep. Again, such lovely, hospitable people. All gathered round to look at our maps and hear some stories. Dinner was an amazing spread of delicious Indonesian food. What a lovely country!

The family

The family


‘Can you turn off the light?’ I asked, lying on the living room floor at night, next to Clement, ready to go to sleep. There was a pause of incomprehension. Clement pointed to the light, and made a cross symbol. Incomprehension. I tried the same kind of waving my arms around. The grandpa turned on the other light. Two lights were on.
‘No. No.’ We pointed to the light. ‘Can you turn off the light?’
Hesitantly he turned off both lights. They couldn’t possibly mean that. Who would want to sleep in the dark?

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The family

I love West Sumatra. What a day it was, ending with some lovely new friends in a little village nestled amongst steep hills with a view over the rice fields. Today we had durian, played with the baby pet monkeys, cycled on beautiful roads through rice paddies and snoozed on a restaurant balcony. We also crossed the equator. Hello southern hemisphere!

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Rice fields

The road was varied today. Steep undulating hills, a flat river and then a 17km climb into the heights. High above, the wind is cool, the view over the mountainous forest landscape is amazing, and we are given mangoes fresh from the tree directly over our head. Using a stick like a snooker cue, the mangoes are knocked down to be consumed.

We stopped for our first durian of the trip. I remember durian fruit as being the most horrible food I have ever tried. The last time, I was not even able to swallow it. This time both Clement and I managed to eat it, and we even finished off a full durian together.

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Durian

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Durian

The people here keep monkeys – and the monkey babies are soooo sweet!

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Monkey

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Monkey

In the heat of the day, we passed the equator. I feel at home now. People stand on their heads, and the water goes down the sink in the right direction. ☺ (For the nerdy people there (like myself), the water rotates in a random direction in both the northern and southern hemispheres. The effect due to the Coriolus force from the rotation of the earth is minimal, and is outweighed by other random forces.)

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Equator