The back roads to Oberon – through beautiful forest roads. A visit to the National Park office to check on road condition and water availability. It’ll be a challenging day tomorrow.
The forest on Bastard Point Road
Today I saw some deer – together with lots of the standard kangaroos. No wild pig spottings like the last 2 days.
The back roads
A major shopping spree in Oberon, including lots of water. There’s no water until I get to tomorrow’s destination of Yerranderie. I have been eating like there’s no tomorrow, so lots of food was bought too.
Today was a big day. Sunrise at the Kanangra Walls and waterfall hunting on the back roads. Like yesterday, it was a sunny morning with a thundery and rainy afternoon. The jam-packed day included a mad dash in the rain and hail to the camping ground.
Kanangra Walls
The sunrise on the plateau at Kanangra Walls was spectacular. And I was the only one there.
The iconic image at Kanangra WallsA view over everything
After a late breakfast, it was waterfall spotting – checking off all the falls in the book from #lostmtns in the Kanangra region.
Kalang Falls was a disappointment. I guess the reason may be it is only a short walk from the carpark, and I was not alone. By the time I got there, the masses had arrived.
Kalang Falls
Then it was on the side roads down to Morong Falls I hadn’t realised how far it was off the main road. By the time I got there, the thunder was growling from all directions, and the rain fell intermittently. While I wanted to try out the natural bubble spa, and clamber down to the multiple pools below, I didn’t want to be caught in the thunderstorm on the (potentially slippery) rocks. It was a quick photo, a dip of the toes in the water, and off.
Morong Falls
After a thigh-deep river crossing, it was time to try Box Hill waterfall. Following an unmarked route, sometimes in the rain and hail, I made it there.
Crossing the Boyd RiverBox Hill Falls
I just missed capturing the many fingers of lightening seconds before I took this photo. While I wanted to stay, I was aware that the track back to the road is easy to miss, and I didn’t want to hang around for the next bout of rain. As it was, the last 10km to the camping ground was in the rain.
Back at the camping ground, it was time to warm up, have dinner and wait until the rain stops so I can set up my tent.
I’m sitting in the eating shelter at the Kanangra Walls carpark. Today was sunny and rainy with a few claps of thunder. I didn’t get wet.
The rain is coming
With the office closed this week, I’m taking compulsory leave. A perfect opportunity to visit all the places in the back parts of the Blue Mountains that are too far to reach on weekend trips.
Kanangra Walls has always been on my list. Massive cliff faces dropping down to a spectacular valley.
Kanangra Walls
The weather has been weird the last few days. Sunny and beautiful in the morning. Dark, imposing clouds roll over in the afternoon. Rolls of thunder from the heavens. The occasional bolt of lightning.
But first the beautiful sunny morning undulating through the farmland.
The road to Oberon
Oberon was my refueling stop.
Entering Oberon
The rain started just as I arrived at the camping ground. I had a chat with two nature enthusiasts, Paul and Rebecca. They gave me some tips for things to see in the coming days.
I just made it to and from the famous lookout before the rain set in. Let’s see where I set up my tent (once the rain stops).
Before the clouds rolled over.
Before the clouds rolled over.
After the rain, the impressive clouds and the constant growl of thunder, the sun shone through just as it dipped below the horizon. My tent could be set up (and remain dry) just behind the shelter. I’m all set for my early morning walk on the Kanangra plateau.
The sinking of the sun at Kanangra WallsThe sinking of the sun at Kanangra Walls
I haven’t been there for a while as the bike, Drahtesel 1.0, was on life support. The sun was shining, and the Blue Mountains were calling. One of my favourite places there – Dalpura Canyon.
Not much cycling, really. A short cycle from the train to the trailhead, and then a walk down through the pagodas to the shady, cool canyon.
The bike rides like a dream. Bring on the next 95,000km.
In 2012 my bicycle, Drahtesel, was born. In 2025, 13 years and 95,000km later, Drahtesel passed away. He is not gone, but lives on in a new form. Four original parts survive from the 2012 bike – the bell, the water bottle holders, the baggage racks and the handlebar.
This video is about his birth, death and rebirth. But first, a final hoorah. A pleasant jaunt around the south island of New Zealand.
The weather closed in again to farewell my bike trip. Rain and headwind accompanied me as I slogged out the last 29km of the New Zealand adventure.
Wairau River
Snug in my hotel, I delayed departure with a buffet breakfast. In Picton, again snug and warm, I curled up with a book I’ve been meaning to read for a while.
Reading in a café
My original plan was to explore around Picton for the day. Instead, I chose the dry option.
It’s been a fun bike trip. Sun has showed mountain lakes and beaches in their beauty. Rain and wind has made New Zealand feel more rugged.
There are 2 kinds of enjoyment. Type 1 is the kind you feel at the time. Sunny cycling in beautiful landscapes is enjoyment type 1. Type 2 is delayed enjoyment. At the time, it’s a slog. Rain, wind, trials, and tribulations. After it’s finished, the enjoyment of knowing you did it kicks in. Enjoyment type 2. New Zealand had some of that, too.
When a headwind is constant on the plains, you never get a pause from pedalling. No rolling downhill. No break. To take my mind off the grind, today was a podcast listening day.
Wairau River
Today was actually slowly downhill – losing 700m over about 80km. Such a slow descent makes it like the flat. I stopped regularly to rest – to replace the regular rests of going downhill in a more undulating terrain.
Lunch out of the sun and wind
The sun was beautiful. I enjoyed that – the rain is returning tomorrow.
The weather was beautiful. I had a nice tailwind. I cycled along peaceful countryside roads. But I felt tired. Overtraining? Anyway, an early night is planned.
The Great Taste Trail
I left Jake’s place with energy and excitement. The plan was to ride up to another beautiful mountain lake at St Arnaud and then roll down the valley tomorrow to the east coast.
I followed the Great Taste Trail again up some country roads, stopping for an ice cream before climbing over a small saddle to change valleys to cycle to Tapawera. This is where I crossed my route on day 1, and where I met Jake – who was my host last night.
Same café at Tapawera
The road continued upwards with another little pass to change valleys. The climb really took it out of me, despite the sun and tailwind.
I looked at the road switching its way up above me, and laughed with joy. My body felt strong, the sun was shining, and the music was pumping in my ears. I felt on top of the world – and after the climb, I was.
The switchbacks of the road ahead
I get a rush from the exertion, doing something most people can’t do. It makes me happy.
After the first switchbackAfter the 2nd switchbackAfter the 3rd switchbackThe top
Before the climb, a few hours were spent at the town of Takaka, swapping out dead brakepads and eating to get some energy for the climb.
Dead brakepads
I’m staying with Jake in Motueka – a cyclist I met on day one of this trip. We shared cycling stories, and he gave some tips for my road ahead.
The northwest part of the South Island of New Zealand looks like a kiwi. I am staying just under the start of the beak – at the base of a 30km spit of sand. I had a busy day exploring it, the nearby cliff faces and the famous Wharariki Beach.
Farewell Spit
I cycled out from the end of the Heaphy Trail and back to civilisation – the town of Collingwood. The weather has changed – the sun has decided to shine and the rain has stopped.
I left my accommodation at 1pm with a mission. To see as much as possible. The Farewell Spit.
Farewell SpitFarewell Spit
The cliff faces looking over the Spit.
View out over the Farewell Spit
And Wharariki Beach.
Wharariki BeachWharariki BeachWharariki Beach
I returned to the beach for sunset.
Wharariki Beach at sunsetWharariki Beach at sunsetWharariki Beach at sunset
It’s been a long day. Tomorrow begins my trek to Picton where the ferry is waiting to take me to Wellington and my flight home.
arctic-cycler.com 