Slow in the hills. Sprint on the flats. Off the freeway into tranquil, peaceful and hilly Black Sea Turkey. But time marches on. We make the distance sprinting towards Giresun on the freeway with the spectacular mosque and orange-pink panoramic sunset at our back.

The sunset near Giresun

The sunset near Giresun

Yesterday the freeway was noisy, plied by fast travelling and impatient trucks, hurtling along the Silk Road towards the east. The new tunnel (not on the map) yesterday was dangerous. I felt vulnerable on the bike, just waiting to be swept up by a truck being passed by two others with no roadside to escape to. James and I decided to avoid the long tunnel between Fatsa and Ordu and take the coast road that circuits around the mountainous peninsula.

It was like someone had turned on the colour switch. I was taken from the speed trance of the freeway, and started experiencing again. The birds were tweeting, the people were working on the side of the road, and the villages were alive with people.

Jason's church

Jason’s church

Black Sea coast

Black Sea coast

But it was hilly, more strenuous than on the freeway, and very slow going. I had a bike maintenance date at the bike shop in Ordu (great guys!) to replace the handlebar stem on my bike. And then another 50km to our warm showers host in Giresun.

Ordu bike shop

Ordu bike shop

So, we ate, took the freeway, and then went like the clappers.

Ayran and salad

Ayran and salad

We were met 30km out of Giresun by Kadir – our wonderful warm showers host who cycled back with us back to his home. At our backs a sky of fire was unfolding. It was a special time, cycling along the straight, flat freeway in the warm evening, constantly turning to see the spectacle behind us.

Mosque

Mosque

Sunset near Giresun

Sunset near Giresun

Kadir has a hazelnut farm perched high on a hill overlooking Giresun. We sat on the balcony before bed looking at the Giresun lights twinkling below us, with the Black Sea extending out on the horizon.

Me, Kadir and James

Me, Kadir and James


The road is straight. The road is wide. There are lots of trucks. The surface is good. The noise is great. Distance is the goal, and we fly like the wind.

Bike on the Black Sea

Bike on the Black Sea

We left our friends in Samsun with new matching cycling shirts, and arrived 6 hours later at our new friends in Fatsa. A lovely dinner and hospitality. The language barrier meant that we couldn’t share much more than smiles.

Our host Ahmet

Our host Ahmet

Today there was no beating about the bush. We can cycle like this for a few days to make some distance. A small road would be nice from time to time.


Cycle 10km like the wind. Reboot a server using the iPhone. Cycle 10km like the wind. Write a new website script and deploy. Making a buck on the road James Lambie style.

Black Sea road

Black Sea road

The road was flat, the sun was shining, and James Lambie was earning his living with his home office job. We had some kilometres to cover today, and our strategy was to divide it into 10km speed chunks. James is faster than me, so, he would power away into the distance, to be seen again at the next 10km stop.

I arrive bedraggled, having slogged through the sizable headwind.
‘Sugar level OK,’ (James is a diabetic), ‘Client website deployed.’ (James is a software engineer working from home office.) ‘Ice-cream eaten.’ (We usually stopped at service stations.)

Black Sea coast road

Black Sea coast road

I actually arrived before James at one 10km stop. I left before him.
‘There was a major emergency. The client’s server was down. I had to write a new script to process the online form, write some new tests, and deploy. I hope you haven’t been waiting long.’
I had been waiting for 2 minutes.

The last 20km into Samsun was turbo-powered. The wind died down, and we scooted along the main, flat, straight road into the 600,000 strong metropolis.

The Turkish cycling community is amazing, and so welcoming. We hadn’t planned anywhere to stay in Samsun, and our warm showers host from Iznik, Soner, wrote.
‘Where are you now? I have a friend in Samsun that would love to host you.’
We were honoured to meet some more amazing people. The president of the Samsun cycling organization – Yacin and his wife. They got married on a bicycle – it looked like an awesome wedding ceremony. His landlord and friend is an Australian Turk who lives in both Australia and Turkey. They all welcomed us with open arms. It was great to meet them!

Our lovely hosts in Samsun

Our lovely hosts in Samsun

Day 90. 0km. Gerze

Posted: April 24, 2015 in Cycling, Turkey
Tags: , ,

Make hay while the sun shines. Correction, rest day while the sun shines. Watching the waves lap on the shore on the Black Sea, unfortunate haircut in Sinop, and nice drink with a warm shower friend.

Resting on the Black Sea

Resting on the Black Sea

James was writing cute Chinese characters in the sun on our day off – part of a lovely birthday surprise tomorrow. 🙂

Chinese

Chinese

The highlight of the day was walking down the main street of Sinop with hair like this. I kept on reminding myself that I don’t know anyone here (except for James, and he won’t tell anyone).

Tomorrow back on the bike again – hopefully to Samsun.


Sitting in front of the class aided by the English teacher, James and I talked to the kids of the Boyabat school – and then had lots of selfies taken. A monster climb over the pass into the fog and snow before descending to the – BLACK SEA. Yay! No more mountains for a while! ☺

Selfie

Selfie

‘What do you need to get into University in Australia or New Zealand?’
‘What is the best way to learn English?’
James and I answered the teachers’ questions in front of the students before the big rush to take selfies and like James on Instagram (I should set up an Instagram account, I think..) ☺
On a more serious note, the teacher said the students have little chance to hear and speak to English native speakers. I hope our visit motivated them to explore the world out there, and to learn the language I am lucky enough to have as my mother tongue.

In front of the class

In front of the class

Then the monster climb from 300m to 1300m and over the other side to the Black Sea. The big headwind made it a slow affair. We stopped every 3km to eat, and had a lovely Çanakkale tea stop (Wow! An Australian and a New Zealanders – ANZAC – Çanakkale – very good – like – I have an ANZAC jumper) at the top of the pass.

Anzac jumper

Anzac jumper

They were lovely people working for the road network just before the new tunnel at the top of the pass. We were given copious quantities of tea and Turkish delight.

We popped out of the tunnel on the Black Sea side of the mountain and into dense fog, which remained with us almost until we hit the Black Sea many kilometres below.

Tunnel exit

Tunnel exit

Black Sea

Black Sea


This valley in Turkey is famous for turkey and garlic. After an interview with the local rag, we may become famous as the ANZACs in this valley 100 years after the Çanakkale victory. After meeting the local English teacher, James may become famous as the New Zealander of Boyabat.

Selling garlic

Selling garlic

Sitting in front of a small shop in Hanōnü, we were being asked the usual questions – where are you from? Where are you going? What is you name? The answers were being written down, and it soon became apparent that this was for a newspaper. From Australia and New Zealand? Great!! That’s the story – 100 years since the Çanakkale victory, two ANZACs (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) return on bike. Then the camera was whipped out, and before we knew it, we were posing with the bikes in front of the local iconic buildings.

Me getting interviewed

Me getting interviewed

Our lovely warm showers host Yalçin – a philosophy teacher at the school – invited the school’s English teacher over for tea. The excitement mounted when we heard that they were studying New Zealand in the English class, and they invited James to talk to the students at the school.

Thank you, Yalçin for your great hospitality and for an enjoyable evening of food, photos, tea and stories!

Yalçin - our host

Yalçin – our host


A kerfuffle at 3am as a strange man stumbled around the hotel corridor in Araç. He was shooed away by the man responsible for the corridor wood stove. Other than that the usual – climbing over a pass and down the other side – this time to Kastamonu. A shave at the local barber, a talk with some couch surfing students, and a nice warm comfortable hotel. 🙂

An oily snow field

An oily snow field

The day was cloudy and cold – especially at over 1000m. James and I both agree we have had enough of mountains for the time being, and are looking forward to reaching the flat Black Sea coast.

The pass before Kastamonu

The pass before Kastamonu

One has to look one’s best at the beach, so, time for a shave.

A shave in Kastamonu

A shave in Kastamonu

I think there was some language barrier confusion with our Couch Surfing host, and James and I are now staying in a nice hotel in Kastamonu. The weather forecast is for much warmer weather, and we are looking forward to the next chapter in the trip. Swimming, camping on the beach, cruising along the coastal road. But tomorrow Boyabat and then one last pass to the coast.


On this day 44 years ago, I appeared on this earth. Back then, my loving parents could not have imagined that I would be cycling from Holland to Australia, and would be celebrating this joyous anniversary by eating a birthday cheese with a New Zealander in the mountain village of Iğdir. But, so it has come to be.

My birthday cheese

My birthday cheese

My mother could have had an inkling that I would have gorged out on numerous cakes and chocolate bars before indulging in the birthday cheese.

Indulgence

Indulgence

The first day of my 45th year was spent eating a birthday breakfast with my Karabük friends, and drinking copious amounts of çay.

Çay

Çay

The sun made a brief appearance, and shone on the Unesco Historical Town of Safranbolu.

Safranbolu

Safranbolu

Safranbolu

Safranbolu

Safranbolu

Safranbolu

Then the clouds returned. Mood changes with the weather. Some days you feel on top of the world. Sometimes you just feel like curling up into a warm bed. Following a river up into the mountains, James and I both felt a bit unenthused. It was cloudy, cold, and the wind couldn’t make up its mind if it wanted to help us or hinder us. We pressed on – a birthday cheese helped us on our way. We ended up in a cheap hotel in the small town of Araç. The wood stove in the hotel corridor provided some warmth. The room is basic – there are two beds. My sleeping bag should do the trick in the linen department.

Wooden stove

Wooden stove

Hotel room

Hotel room


Today I ate birthday cake – one in the morning, and one in the evening. In between birthday cake eating sessions I cycled across a high snowy plain, and then 1000m downhill into the student town of Karabük. And today wasn’t even my birthday.

Snowy plains

Snowy plains

The first birthday cake was for a friend in Taiwan, and I ate some cake to celebrate that in the snow.

Kaiwen's birthday cake

Kaiwen’s birthday cake

The second birthday cake was in anticipation of my upcoming birthday tomorrow. This was eaten together with our wonderful warm shower hosts Kaan and his friends in Karabük. They not only welcomed James and me into their home and cooked for us, but insisted on celebrating my last evening on the planet aged 43 with a cake. Great people!

My birthday cake

My birthday cake

The cycling today was cold and white. My phone thought it far too cold, and went on strike. I had to keep it snug and warm next to my chest to prevent it rebooting. It wanted to be near the birthday-boy to be.

Snowy freeway

Snowy freeway


The mountains are white, and it is snowing. Snow angels, snow balls and a thaw-out at an alpine tea house made for an enjoyable if cold and strenuous day over a 1600m alpine pass.

Snow on the way to Gerede

Snow on the way to Gerede

Our plan was to make an early start, steam over the high pass, and make it all the way to our warm shower host in Karabük by evening. With the road long, and the headwind, snow and sludge slowing us down, we found that this was quite unrealistic. It was good, though, to have a change of scenery, and see everything enveloped in white.

Snowy village

Snowy village

James made a nice snow angel. I didn’t dare – it was cold enough already.. 🙂

Snow angel

Snow angel

The high pass between Kızılcahamam and Gerede

The high pass between Kızılcahamam and Gerede

We made it to the ski town of Gerede. Tomorrow on through the snow. In a few days it will warm up to 21C. Hard to imagine.. 🙂