Archive for the ‘France’ Category


Weekend cycles are good to get ready (mentally and physically) for my 2 month cycle to the North Cape in 6 weeks. This weekend I left my home in Eindhoven, touched French soil (in Givet), and returned to Namur in Belgium to catch the train home.

Eindhoven – Givet – Namur. Info and gpx download on EveryTrail

Flat and curvy is better than up and down, and up and down. This trip I followed the Maas River (which is flat and curvy), starting with passing through my favourite forest, then cycling along my favourite canal – a canal following the Maas on the Belgian side of the border.

Leendebos

Leendebos

The view over the canal following the Dutch - Belgian border

The view over the canal following the Dutch – Belgian border

Lovely island in the canal.

Lovely island in the canal.

I had chosen to cycle south as the wind was blowing that way. When I have no concrete destination in mind – cycle where the wind blows. I will have enough headwinds cycling to the North Cape.

After Maastricht (well, skirting around it), I entered new territory. Castles, fields and a beautiful river – the Maas (Meuse).

Border post

Border post

Castle at the Dutch-Belgian border

Castle at the Dutch-Belgian border

Meuse at Liege

Meuse at Liege

When the road was nice, it was very nice – bike paths and no cars. In Belgium (Wallonie), the cycle network is not connected. So.. When it was not nice, it was not nice. Busy roads, loud. Not fun.

I had booked a room in a castle in Huy – between Liege and Maastricht on the Maas. It was a lovely castle with friendly, helpful staff. They gave me a great tip for a cycle route the next day. And, it had an interesting view – looking out over the nuclear reactor on the other side of the street.

Domaine Du Chateau de la Neuville

Domaine Du Chateau de la Neuville

Bedroom with my bike

Bedroom with my bike

Lovely view

Lovely view

In Wallonie (the french speaking part of Belgium), they have the RAVeL network (Reseau Autonome des Voies Lents) – ravel.wallonie.be. These are separate bike roads, no cars in sight (usually), passing leisurely through the countryside. I first discovered these when I crossed the border into Belgium (there was a big sign explaining the system). In Huy, I was suggested to go on the Ligne 126 to Ciney. This followed an old train track, passing up a beautiful valley, through forests, and through a high area above the valley. And, as it followed an old train line, it was not steep. And it was empty. Beautiful.

Abandoned train station on Ligne 126

Abandoned train station on Ligne 126

Fields

Fields

Reaching the end of the path, I had to make my way uphill and down dale to the Meuse. The landscape away from the Meuse is undulating, and then a sudden steep drop to the river. Fun to cycle down, but once you’re down, its hard to leave the valley. The steep sides of the Meuse River made for some lovely cycling. I passed vertical rockfaces covered with rock climbers. Looked like fun.

Vertical cliffs on the Meuse

Vertical cliffs on the Meuse

Vertical cliffs on the Meuse

Vertical cliffs on the Meuse

View from above.

View from above.

Dinant

Dinant

The goal of the trip was to step over into France. I did.

France

France

And then cycled back to Namur to catch the train.

I learned some stuff about my equipment, remembered stuff I learned cycling in Norway last year, and remembered how important it is to cycle along a scenic road, with little traffic, and a good surface. On this trip I discovered that:

  • My phone backup batteries can discharge if something is pressing on them in the bag – at least that is my theory why they were both discharged on the last day.
  • Just like following the curves of a fjord in Norway, following the curves of the Maas River is better than taking a ‘short cut’. I learned in Norway to get mentally prepared for all places where the road deviated from the coast. Last weekend I learned that the Maas River has steep banks.
  • Unfortunately, longish stretches of cobblestones in the RAVeL network made the busy road that I was avoiding seem appealing. But then, lots of roadworks on the RAVeL routes forced me to take the main roads, after which I dreamed of hitting the cobblestones again.

Dover – Calais – Oostende

The weather had changed completely when I got up this morning. Thick cloud and a gale was blowing damp cold air from the north-east. Like in Calais I did a few circuits of the bitumen harbour passing passport and ticket checks, and lining with the cars. I stayed inside the boat this time. Too chilly outside.

I found the way out from the harbour easily and started my slow slog to the north-east. In the open fields without protection from the wind I travelled at 13-14 km/h. With a few trees for protection I made 15. Villages were a blessing. I made 17-18 km/h. The constant push forward is more wearing than the varied pushes uphill and rolling downhill of the earlier days. Also, going uphill, you know you will be cycling down. I knew the wind would be blowing in my face all day today..

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Also, roads were again an issue. Near Dunkirk everything was almost freeway. I took a detour south and made my way through some much more pleasant villages. It was time for a late lunch at the Belgian border. A wacky brasserie playing a mixture of 80s, schlagers and 60s and frequented by the local elders was my stop for lasagne.

It became clear to me that Oostende will be my final destination and not Vlissingen. The wind, if anything, seemed to get stronger. I was reduced to 11 km/h at times. The wall to wall high rise apartment blocks of almost all of the Belgian coast were a blessing. Near them I made 18 km/h.

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I arrived at Oostende ready for a lazy sit in the train. I feel satisfied having seen some new country out in nature.


Heuvelland -Dover

It didn’t rain overnight and the skies were surprisingly clear when I emerged early from my tent. The birds were already up proclaiming their deafening chorus. It was 5am. I packed up, ate my few remaining snacks (they didn’t have anything much to buy at the camping ground the evening before), and left.

Again, cycling early in the morning is the best time. The air is cold and crisp and there is a magic light. I took the back roads to Loker and the nipped across the border to Bailleau – a very quaint town, and so peaceful so early.

I nourished myself on wares from the boulangerie today at various stops. Lots of naughty pastries. It is France, after all. There was little else. They were very good.. 😉 Anyway, I’m sure the calories are burnt off..

The wind was predominately a head wind and the hills seemed more up than down. I had a slow pace, but it was nice, cool, cycling weather, the sun poking through the clouds from time to time.

Finding a road not impossibly busy with cars and trucks rocketing along is quite a challenge. At times such roads were unavoidable and rather unpleasant. The side roads were all the more rewarding. Narrow, meandering roads, flanked by fields and cows.

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The uphill rolling hills unexpectedly dipped precipitously into the town of Licques. It is a beautiful village at the bottom of a bowl of circling steep hills. What was it doing here? Lovely. Lunch at Licques, and then a short slog until the pass, from which I rocketed down all the way to Calais.

The harbour and all the infrastructure for the ferries is very impressive. After lining up with the cars, I had a restful trip across the channel before admiring the white cliffs on the way in to Dover.

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My plans of doing the cycle trip on the cliff top to Deal didn’t happen. I circled around and around in Dover before slogging my way up and immensely steep road to the castle on the hill. The road was so steep the front wheel almost reared up, nearly flipping the bike. I cycled briefly along the top before chatting with a guy sunning himself on a grassy area at the top. I realised Deal was way too far and steep. In fact, I decided to sleep in a hotel in Dover. Much more convenient than the planned camping ground at Folkestone. A good English roast for dinner and then off to bed. Early boat back to Calais and the up the coast as far as I can get.